Kyoto Temple Shares the Joys of Vegetarian Cuisine with Hands-on Classes

Torin-in, a sub-temple of Myoshin-ji in Kyoto's Ukyo Ward, has been hosting cooking classes for 25 years as of November. While some temples serve Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (shojin ryori), it is rare for them to offer hands-on classes.

Leading the class is 85-year-old head priest Genbo Nishikawa, who began the program inspired by his experiences as a cook during monastic training.

"I never imagined the course would continue for this long — I'm overwhelmed," he said.

"The word for 'seasonal' [shun] reflects a fleeting moment," says Nishikawa, weaving Zen philosophy into his lessons. "The skins of vegetables like burdock root and carrots are the tastiest. Don't carelessly peel them away."

Occasionally mixing humor into his teachings, Nishikawa conveys the essence of shojin ryori and its underlying philosophy.

At a session held in early November, 14 participants gathered from across Japan. The day's menu featured three dishes: mushroom curry udon, apple and sweet potato salad, and stir-fried burdock root and lotus root.

Instead of meat, the curry used konnyaku (konjac) as a substitute. The participants split into two groups, efficiently handling everything from preparation to plating.

*At the tasting event, participants enjoyed the three dishes made in the cooking class, along with side dishes prepared by the temple. Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City.*

Gratitude for Ingredients

The completed dishes were sampled together while reciting the Gokanmon (Five Reflections), a Zen text expressing gratitude for food and being able to eat.

A 61-year-old middle school teacher from Kanagawa Prefecture took part for the first time during his sabbatical. "Just watching the interactions between the monk and the participants is so enjoyable," he said, knife in hand.

A homemaker from Aichi Prefecture has been attending the class for over 20 years. "I started coming because I wanted to learn how to cook with vegetables. I've learned so much more than just the recipes from the monk and the experienced homemakers here. They are all like mothers to me," she said with a warm smile.

Cooking Classes for the Community

Nishikawa is also a noted researcher of shojin ryori and has authored numerous cookbooks, including Shojin Ryori Made in the Kitchen and Shojin Ryori Anyone Can Make (both published by Tankosha).

*Head priest Genbo Nishikawa giving instructions and advice. Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City.*

Nishikawa spent over a decade training at Ryoan-ji, famed for its stone garden, and Zuiryu-ji's specialized dojo in Gifu Prefecture. He was eventually entrusted with meal preparation, which introduced him to shojin ryori. "I wasn't great at chanting sutras, but people praised my cooking," he recalled with a chuckle. This encouragement spurred him to master the craft.

Upon retiring at 60 from his 35-year role at the administrative office of the Myoshin-ji school, Nishikawa resolved to start a cooking class in 1999 at his temple. He even built a new kitchen, Tensai-ryo, for the classes. The kitchen's name reflects his hope that participants would recreate the dishes they learned at home.

"We don't have a parish system here, so I thought I could attract people through cooking. It also helps [the elderly] keep their mind sharp," said Nishikawa. "Shojin ryori might sound grand, but it's really just sharing the simple home-cooked dishes I know with everyone. The fact that the classes lasted this long is a source of encouragement, and I hope to continue for years to come."

The shojin ryori classes are held every Tuesday and Friday from 10 AM to 1 PM. The fee is ¥3,600 JPY (about $20 USD) per person, including ingredients.