For Rakuten Fashion Week, Satoru Sasaki's Radical Take on Minimalism

Tokyo Rakuten Fashion Week has once again brought the city's fashion fanatics and creatives together in celebration. Among 2025's standout designers is Satoru Sasaki, who unveiled his 2025 Fall/Winter collection, staying true to the brand's minimalist roots while infusing bold color and rich texture into the mix. JAPAN Forward took a closer look at this captivating showcase on March 20th.

Creator and Brand Philosophy

Satoru Sasaki began his fashion journey in 1989 at Horiuchi Taro Co Ltd. After leaving the company, he returned to his hometown of Kobe, where he began creating works for European audiences. Eventually, he gained recognition in 2015 by receiving the TOKYO Fashion Award Asia.

His career took him through fashion houses both domestically and internationally, most notably working under Jean-Paul Knott and Phoebe Philo at Celine. Finally, in 2019, Sasaki established his eponymous brand, SATORU SASAKI.

The brand focuses on unisex minimalist designs, with its core concept being "clothes that create women that men admire." Sasaki meticulously balances feminine and masculine qualities while playfully exploring the boundary between minimalism and bold, expressive elements.

Inspiration

The concept for his 2025 Fall/Winter collection drew inspiration from Latvian-American abstract artist Mark Rothko. Rothko's works are renowned for their vibrant colors and distinctive use of imperfect squares and rectangles. While his art has sparked debate among critics, fans often praise the emotional depth his paintings evoke.

This idea of conveying emotion through simplicity was the guiding principle behind Sasaki's 2025 runway show. The collection echoed Rothko's signature color blocking and geometric forms, creating garments that felt sculpted rather than merely draped or fitted.

Pieces

The show opened with a striking red dress made from looped yarn, immediately setting the tone. The tube dress featured two shades of red: a bright crimson bodice and a maroon skirt that fell to mid-thigh, creating a bold, block-like silhouette reminiscent of Rothko's art. This thick yarn appeared throughout the collection in various forms, from tops and skirts to full dresses.

Complementing the yarn pieces were garments crafted from a soft, fuzzy material that added warmth and texture. Scarves, jackets, and pants in this cozy fabric contrasted beautifully with the shorter skirts and cropped tops, creating a playful tension befitting a winter collection.

Tailoring also took center stage with impeccably patterned suit jackets in relaxed cuts, paired with flowing slacks or textured pants. Simpler designs, like wool cardigans and coats, maintained the collection's focus on color and texture while offering more understated options.

Other standout pieces included whimsical tops shaped like painter's palettes, rendered in an array of vibrant hues and paired with expertly tailored slacks. One memorable piece featured a well-structured top that cascaded into a dramatic train, layered in red and white fabric, and paired with tiny red velvety shorts. Another striking look took form in a pillow-like accessory, crafted from the iconic looped yarn, which the model held against her chest as she confidently strutted down the runway. 

Brushing the Boundaries of Minimalism

Each look reinforced Sasaki's vision: garments that blend structure with fluidity, simplicity with boldness.

In this remarkable collection, Sasaki once again demonstrated an ability to push the boundaries of minimalism while staying true to his brand's essence. His 2025 Fall/Winter pieces invite us to embrace the art of subtle expression — and perhaps, like Rothko, to find emotion in simplicity.

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Author: Natasha Takahashi