Earl Kinmonth 
Azaleas in various shades of pink in bloom at Rikugien Gardens. (©JAPAN Forward)
Now is the best time for viewing azaleas (tsutsuji) in Tokyo and the surrounding Kanto Plain. There are many celebrated venues in Tokyo of which Nezu Shrine is probably the most famous.
But, with fame comes crowds. Even during the period when pandemic restrictions all but eliminated foreign tourists, the Nezu Shrine became extremely crowded when the azaleas were at their best.
Fortunately, there are alternatives that give a highly pleasurable viewing experience without extreme crowding, even now with "overtourism" as a major issue.
Rikugien
Of these other venues, my favorite is Rikugien. I count myself very fortunate that this formal Japanese garden is an easy walking distance from my home office.
Created in 1702 at the behest of a daimyo (feudal lord), it later became the second residence of Iwasaki Yataro (1835–1885), founder of the Mitsubishi conglomerate. In 1938 the Iwasaki family donated it to Tokyo.
Access
Rikugien admission is ¥300 JPY (about $2 USD) for adults, discounted to ¥150 for those over 65. A joint ticket that gives admission to Kyu-Furukawa Gardens (walking distance) is available at ¥400 for general admission and ¥200 for those over 65.
Rikugien is open 9 AM–5 PM year round except for December 29 to January 1.
The main entrance is a seven-minute walk from Komagome Station (JR Yamanote Line and Tokyo Metro Namboku Line).
The garden has limited wheelchair access. The Accessible Japan website provides further details.
The grassy areas are off-limits and there is no provision for picnics. Food can, however, be brought in and consumed wherever there are benches. A dedicated shop has tea and traditional Japanese confections. There is also a snack shop with bench seating. Both offer good views of the pond.
Conclusion
Until I retired from teaching and started writing articles about things to see in Japan, I thought of azaleas as a former resident of northern California. They are planted along Interstate 80 between San Francisco and Davis, chosen for their bright red color and ability to withstand a hostile environment.
I know now they come in colors other than bright red. They also make a major contribution to the pleasures of spring in Japan, not just in parks and formal gardens, but also as a common planting in residential neighborhoods.
Rikugien is, in addition to its azaleas, a top-tier venue for sakura and autumn colors.
RELATED:
- A Tokyo Agricultural Park to See, Taste, and Learn About Japan's Seasonal Wonders
- Tracking Tokyo Roses Along the Arakawa Tram Line
Author: Earl H Kinmonth
Photographs by EH Kinmonth. Find other stories about Tokyo and nearby areas by Dr Kinmonth.
