Riding the Gono Line, Where 'Slam Dunk' Meets Scenic Japan

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The Gono Line has recovered after suffering heavy rain damage for two consecutive years. Today, it is attracting growing numbers of inbound visitors thanks to the Resort Shirakami, one of JR East's pioneering sightseeing trains. The line also passes through Noshiro, known as the inspiration for the high school team in the popular basketball manga Slam Dunk.

Connecting Akita and Tsugaru, Gono Line passes through striking scenery such as the Shirakami-Sanchi mountains, rugged sea cliffs, and Mt Iwaki — known as the "Mt Fuji of Tsugaru."

Although the Gono Line remains one of JR East's least profitable routes, the company's Akita branch is determined to make it a success. "We want to keep working with local communities to showcase the attractions along the line," they say.

The Route at a Glance

The Gono Line stretches about 147 kilometers (91 miles) between Higashi-Noshiro Station in Akita Prefecture and Kawabe Station in Aomori Prefecture. It will celebrate its 90th anniversary in 2026.

The mysteriously deep-blue Aoike Pond = Juniko, Fukaura Town, Aomori Prefecture.

The Resort Shirakami operates between Akita and Hirosaki/Aomori with three different train sets: "Buna" (Japanese beech), "Aoike" (blue pond), and "Kumagera" (black woodpecker). The first two are modern diesel-electric trains, while the "Kumagera" is a refurbished KiHa 48 diesel train that first ran in the 1970s. All three sets consist of four cars.

Boarding the Kumagera

Eager to experience the region's attractions firsthand, I boarded Train No. 3 at 10:50 AM from Akita toward Hirosaki, riding on the "Kumagera." Its front design features kokeshi-doll-like eyes that give it a gentle look. The coupled cars retain the classic KiHa 48 face. When the diesel engine roars during acceleration, the sound alone thrills rail enthusiasts.

*Resort Shirakami "Kumagera," with its kokeshi-doll face design. Noshiro Station on the JR Gono Line.*

Inside, cars 1 and 4 feature observation lounges in front of the driver's cabin. Car 2 offers semi-private box seats that can be laid flat for lounging.

Because it is a sightseeing service, the train allows extended stops at major stations, where passengers can take part in local events or short excursions.

At Higashi-Noshiro Station, the train switches from the Ou Main Line onto the Gono Line. I saw passengers chatting with staff near the Gono Line's starting-point sign and exploring the black woodpecker-themed waiting room.

Slam Dunk in Noroshiro

At the next stop, Noshiro Station, passengers can try shooting hoops at a basketball goal set up on the platform. Noshiro is considered a "sacred place for basketball," as a local high school was the model for the powerhouse team in the popular manga Slam Dunk. Visitors young and old, from Japan and abroad, cheer and laugh as they take their shots.

*Passengers shoot basketballs on the platform of Noshiro Station along the JR Gono Line.*

Those who score receive an Akita cedar coaster, a nod to Noshiro's history as a timber hub. Pre-ordered bento lunches and local rice cakes can be collected here, and craft beer is also available.

Beautiful Mountains and Ponds

At 1:03 PM, the train arrived at Juniko Station in Fukaura, the gateway to the Juniko Lakes. These lakes lie within Tsugaru Quasi-National Park, part of the Shirakami-Sanchi World Heritage Site. Visitors can enjoy a two-hour hike to sights such as the deep-blue Aoike Pond and the emerald Wakitsubo Pond.

*The Resort Shirakami trains Aoike (right, inbound) and Buna (outbound) meet at Fukaura Station on the Gono Line.*

A local facility, Aone Shirakami Juniko, provides a free shuttle service between the station and the trailhead, though reservations are required.

Masakatsu Itaya, an 83-year-old local guide with an office near the station, says, "I helped build roads and facilities in this area, so seeing so many tourists visit makes me incredibly happy."

Dramatic Coastal Scenery

After the hike, I boarded Train No. 5 bound for Aomori at 3:57 PM. This time, the train was the Buna. At Fukaura Station, it lined up with the Aoike for a photo opportunity.

At Senjojiki Station, passengers can walk among dramatic coastal rock formations. The final seaside stop, Ajigasawa, still shows traces of its past as a trading port during the Edo period (1603–1868) and as a thriving herring-fishing hub in the Meiji era (1868–1912).

*Rock formations and bedrock spread across the coastline in front of Senjojiki Station on the Gono Line.*

From Ajigasawa, the line turns inland, circling Mt Iwaki (1,625 meters), often called the "Mt Fuji of Tsugaru."

"Osamu Dazai described Mt Iwaki in his novel Tsugaru as floating gently at the edge of endless rice fields, perfectly symmetrical and deep blue. It is the spiritual symbol of Tsugaru, visible from everywhere," explains veteran guide Shizue Sawaguchi.

Unique Stations and Shrines

The region is also known for its distinctive wooden train stations. Nearby, Kizukuri Station stands out with its 17-meter-tall station building shaped like a Jomon-era (14,000–300 BCE) Shakoki Dogu figurine. Built in 1992 at a cost of ¥200 million JPY, it remains a unique landmark.

*Kizukuri Station, designed in the shape of a more than 17-meter-tall Shakoki-dogu clay figurine — Tsugaru City, Aomori Prefecture.*

A 20-minute drive away, Takayama Inari Shrine draws crowds with its 202 vermilion torii gates that snake through the forest like a dragon.

At Goshogawara Station, visitors can tour the Shayokan, Osamu Dazai's childhood home. From Mutsu-Tsuruda Station, a short drive leads to the Tsuru no Mai Bridge, a 300-meter wooden triple-arched bridge crossing Tsugaru Fujimiko Pond, which reflects Mt Iwaki. Built in 1994, it is cherished as the "Bridge of Longevity."

*The wooden triple-arch Tsuru-no-Mai Bridge spanning Lake Tsugaru Fujimi, with Mt Iwaki in the background.*

Neputa Culture in Hirosaki

At Hirosaki Station, the sightseeing facility Tsugaru Clan Neputa Village immerses visitors in the region's vibrant culture. It features displays of 10-meter illuminated neputa floats, taiko drumming, Tsugaru shamisen performances, and live painting.

"Almost every town in Tsugaru has its own Neputa or Nebuta festival — it's part of daily life," says Takafumi Susuda, head of planning at the facility.

The sharp rhythms of the shamisen, the dazzling colors of the Neputa, and the locals' lively storytelling gave me a sense of the deep passion of the people of Japan's northernmost Honshu region.

*Tsugaru Clan Neputa Village, where visitors can experience Neputa and other aspects of Tsugaru culture.*

A Community Effort

The Gono Line is closely tied to all of these attractions. Supporting it is the Gono Line Regional Liaison Council, formed by JR East and nine municipalities. Even before the Resort Shirakami began operating in 1990, locals were eager to welcome and entertain visitors.

Thanks to these efforts, the line generates major economic benefits despite its financial losses. In fiscal 2023, it posted an operating loss of nearly ¥4.3 billion (about $29 million USD). Yet the positive impact on surrounding communities reached ¥3 billion. Onboard, local residents sell specialty products and perform shamisen music for passengers.

Although the line suffered severe flood damage for two summers in a row, repairs were completed smoothly each time.

"Most of all, it was the strong determination of local communities to protect and support the Gono Line that made recovery possible," says Masaharu Kunishima of JR East's Akita Branch. "Passenger numbers from both Japan and abroad have been steadily increasing since last year [2024]. We'll continue working hand in hand with the community to promote the Gono Line."

Author: Tomoaki Yatsunami, The Sankei Shimbun

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