Lake Nojiri (©JAPAN Forward)
Lake Nojiri (Nojiriko), tucked away in the northern Nagano highlands, is a summer retreat that has quietly charmed visitors for over a century. Known for its crisp mountain air, emerald waters, and quirky mix of history and modern adventure, the lake feels like a hidden world apart from Tokyo's bustle.
A Lake Born of Fire and History
Nojiri exists thanks to the volcanic activity of Mt Kurohime. Long ago, an eruption dammed a river, leaving behind today's sparkling basin. At the lake's center floats Biwa Island, home to Uga Shrine, founded in 730, a reminder that even this secluded alpine lake has been part of Japan's spiritual landscape for over a millennium.
Fast forward to 1922: Canadian missionary Daniel Norman, weary of crowded Karuizawa, came upon Nojiri and helped create the Nojiri Lake Association. Rustic cabins sprang up on the southwest shore, forming a summer community that mixed expatriates with Japanese families. Thanks to strict conservation rules, the shoreline never became overdeveloped, and the woods still hold that camp-like charm.
A Canvas of Nature
Set at 654 meters above sea level, Nojiri offers cool mornings, fresh breezes, and a sweeping panorama of the surrounding peaks, Mt Kurohime, Mt Myoko, and Togakushi. The water mirrors the mountains in the still of morning; mist sometimes hangs low over the surface. Paddle out early, and you might spot a kingfisher's flash or Mandarin ducks drifting near the reeds. I did not, however, wake up that early.
But no retreat is perfect. In midsummer, Nojiri is also famous for its abu flies, oversized horseflies that seem to believe they own the lake. Consider them part of the authentic Nojiri experience. And a reason to pack repellent along with your swimsuit.
On the Water: SUP, Kayaking, and More
The real joy of Nojiri is getting out onto the water. Guesthouses and other lakeside outfitters provide kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards (SUPs). 99% of first-timers will fall in, and only the truly gifted will not.
Laughter echoed as friends toppled off boards, splashing into the lake. It was contagious fun, and on a warm day, no one seemed to mind. Kayaking, meanwhile, offers a gentler way to explore: gliding past wooded coves, hearing only the dip of your paddle and the calls of forest birds.
On breezier afternoons, colorful sails from windsurfers brighten the water, while anglers cast lines for black bass (a name some locals feel could be more appealing) or smelt.
Sauna with a View
Adventure is only half the story. Nojiri has also embraced a small but thriving sauna culture. Finnish-style, wood-fired sauna huts now dot the lakeside, offering heat therapy with unbeatable scenery. At Guesthouse SAPMI's sauna, I sat in the cedar (?)-lined hut with my team, my heartbeat echoing in the quiet as the coals smoldered. When we couldn't take the steam any longer, we stepped outside into the night air for a chilled glass of sparkling water, which I have only now acquired a taste for. Few things feel as revitalizing as that hot-cold shock.
After sweating it out, we made our way back through the quiet dark, trying to recall if the guesthouse lady told us to bring a bear bell, the little jingling thing meant to scare bears off, or not.
The experience blends wellness with camaraderie, all set against Nojiri's alpine backdrop.
Hidden, Yet Easy to Reach
Despite its charms, Lake Nojiri remains low-key. A Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano or Joetsu-Myoko, followed by a short local ride, gets you there in about two hours. Once on site, you'll find simple lakeside lodges, family-run cafes, and nature trails that keep the focus on relaxation rather than spectacle.
So if you're looking for a summer escape that blends adventure and the rare luxury of calm, head to Lake Nojiri. Just don't expect to stay dry on your first SUP — unless, of course, you're one of the truly gifted.
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Author: Daniel Manning
