The entrance of Hiro restaurant in Naha, Okinawa. (©JAPAN Forward by Kenji Yoshida)
Okinawa, Japan's southernmost prefecture, has a rich and complex history. Once the heart of the independent Ryukyu Kingdom, which thrived for over four centuries, the island maintained its distinct cultural identity even under external influence.
In 1879, the Meiji government formally abolished the kingdom and established Okinawa Prefecture, incorporating it into the modern Japanese state.
During the Second World War, the island became a site of one of the bloodiest battles — the only part of the Japanese archipelago to experience a full-scale ground battle with US forces.
After the war, Okinawa remained under American administration until it was returned to Japan in 1972. Today, the prefecture and its surrounding islands host nearly 70% of all US military bases in the country.
Despite this turbulent past, Okinawa has emerged as a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors with its subtropical climate, turquoise waters, and leisurely beaches.
Tradition Meets the Table
But amid the influx of tourists, a growing number of locals remain deeply committed to preserving Okinawa's cultural heritage. And for some, this mission begins with food.
Tucked away in a back alley off Naha's vibrant Kokusai Dori is Hiro, an izakaya that has quietly nurtured Ryukyu culinary traditions for 27 years.
Its unassuming facade belies the depth of history and care found inside. Often described as a "hidden retreat," Hiro caters primarily to local patrons who return time and again for the comforting flavors of home.
Step inside, and you'll find a modest dining space: four small tables and a counter that seats no more than twenty guests. Despite its size, the restaurant is often packed, a testament to the reputation of its owner, Hiro Kinjo.
The Keeper of Ryukyu Flavors
A celebrated Ryukyu cuisine specialist, Kinjo is an instructor at the Okinawa Culinary School and a certified Successor of the Ryukyu Culinary Tradition. In 2022, he was also honored by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare for his contributions to culinary education.
For Kinjo, running Hiro is as much about research and cultural preservation as it is about serving food.
"The basics are vital," he explains, "but you can add a little wit or twist to keep the dishes alive for modern diners."
Hiro's commitment to authenticity is evident in its ingredients. Almost all vegetables and fruits are handpicked locally, from the bitter, green ridges of goya to the silky flesh of hechima — both gourds that are staples of Okinawan cooking.
This farm-to-table approach, Kinjo says, "ensures each dish carries the flavors of the island, immersing diners to Okinawa's land and heritage with every bite."
Food Tells Okinawa's Story
The menu ranges from beloved Ryukyu classics to more adventurous creations. Diners can savor the signature goya champuru, a stir-fry of bitter melon, tofu, and pork, or try mozuku tempura, a playful twist on the island's traditional seaweed delicacy.
For those willing to venture further, duruwakashi, a lesser-known traditional Ryukyu dish of mashed taro corm and chopped taro stem, pairs perfectly with a locally brewed sake.
Whether you are a local seeking a taste of home or a traveler looking to discover Okinawa beyond the beaches and tourist spots, Hiro offers an intimate glimpse into the island's culinary soul.
As a beloved local hideaway, however, Kinjo hopes guests will connect with the space while honoring the intimate atmosphere that keeps Ryukyu traditions alive.
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Author: Kenji Yoshida
