Have You Tried the Ferry? All On Board the Sunflower

Japan impresses visitors with its high-speed trains, vast public transport network, and easy access to airports. Often overlooked by visitors, a long-distance ferry makes for a unique way to travel in the country, without forgoing comfort and efficiency.

"My wife refused to come with me", the retired manager remarks as he views the ocean with his morning coffee. He is returning from Hokkaido to his home near Tokyo on the Nihonkai ferry and proudly shows me a photo of his car – a 1984 Nissan Skyline. It is parked between corn fields in Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost prefecture. For two weeks, he has been alone on the road. "She told me: you are old, your car is old. I can't join you," he adds with a smile.

Like most other passengers, he is in no hurry. MOL Sunflower Ltd operates ferries from Hokkaido to Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture. Sailing overnight, it takes 19 hours to reach its destination.

*A Japan Coast Guard ship sails alongside the ferry. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Japan has almost 30,000 kilometers of coastline – more than Australia or the United States. Still, in big urban centers like Tokyo or Osaka with their vast and efficient public transportation networks, high-speed train connections, and busy airports, it is easy to overlook maritime travel.

Nevertheless, long-distance ferry routes form a key part of Japan’s transportation infrastructure. They connect the four major islands of Honshu, Kyushu, Hokkaido, and Shikoku, to start. Almost a dozen main ferry operators run an extensive network between the main islands. Meanwhile, hundreds of short-distance ferries connect the small islands of the Japanese archipelago, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk to the East China Sea.

*Most Japanese ferries have no WiFi. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Sailing in Luxury

The journey itself is an experience. When the MOL Sunflower Furano sails out of the port of Tomakomai in southern Hokkaido, passengers on the ship's outside deck wave goodbye to friends and family on the harbor pier with their phone lights switched on. It feels like a throwback to the times when long sea voyages were common.

As the ship steams south on the Pacific Ocean, the phone signal drops and the internet connection cuts out. As is still common on Japanese ferries, there is no Wifi on the Sunflower Furano. Time seems to slow down. Students play cards, motorcyclists sit down for a beer, pensioners read books and browse through magazines.

*The lounge area on the Japanese ferry, "Sunflower Furano" (©Agnes Tandler)*

*No long distance ferry should be without its own public bath. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Families soon head to the restaurant for dinner. Meanwhile, truck drivers carry small baskets with soap, head to the onboard sento (public baths). About the same time, pet owners take their dogs for a walk in the dedicated outdoor area.

*There is even a dog run area on the outside deck. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Critter Comforts

Japan's long-distance ferries have little in common with their gritty cousins connecting Greece and Italy or operating in Southeast Asia. Stepping onto the ferry from the landing bridge, a shiny escalator carries passengers up to a reception floor that looks like a hotel lobby with thick carpets and sofas. Sometimes, a pianist in a long evening dress also plays on a grand piano to welcome guests.

*Cabins on the ferry look like hotel rooms. ©Agnes Tandler)*

Staff in uniform guide passengers to their rooms or sleeping space – the options range from a common space with cushions and blankets to comfortable sleeping pods and hotel-style rooms with ocean views and private bathrooms.

*The ship has its own coin laundry. (©Agnes Tandler)*

*This is what a first class cabin with ocean view looks like. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Long-distance ferries also come with plenty of entertainment options. There are restaurants, bars, a coffee shop, a cinema, a children's play area, a gym, a coin laundry, hot water stations, and a public bath with a sea view.

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Latest Energy-saving Technology

It's not only the onboard facilities that impress. As you might expect from the world’s third-largest shipbuilder, Japan is also striving to develop ferries with cutting-edge technology.

The latest addition to the MOL Sunflower fleet is the Sunflower Kamuy. She made her maiden voyage in January 2025 and now operates between Oarai and Tomakomai. Equipped with a dual-fuel engine that can run on LNG and diesel, the 199-meter passenger vessel can reach a top speed of 24 knots.

Developed by Nakai Zosen in Hiroshima Prefecture, its bow is designed to use headwinds to help propulsion. Thus, it saves energy and cuts CO2 emissions by 35% compared to earlier vessels still in service. The Sunflower Kamuy also provides more loading space for trucks, helping to ease the long-standing labor shortage in the transport industry. Half of all the truck drivers in Japan are over 50 years old. By 2030, the sector projects it will have a shortfall of 210.000 drivers.

Sea of Japan's Keyaki Ferry

Similarly, another brand new environmentally friendly ferry sails between Honshu and Hokkaido on the Sea of Japan side. It connects Maizuru near Kyoto with the port of Otaru on Japan's northernmost main island.

The Keyaki ferry has a novel energy-saving hull form, including a katana (sword) shaped bow and a ducktail stern. These shapes minimize water resistance and save energy. Its operator, Shin Nihonkai Ferry, launched the ship into service in November 2025.

The Keyaki can carry around 286 passengers and provide loading space for 150 trucks and 30 passenger cars. With a top speed of 28.3 knots, it is one of the fastest ferries in Japan. Thanks to a dual-damping system and stabilizers that counteract the ship's natural swaying, the journey feels smooth as the ship sails effortlessly through the waves.

*There is also entertainment, such as this pianist playing for the passengers. (©Agnes Tandler)*

A Taste of Japan's Quiet Side

Regardless of design and technical specifications, sailing on a ferry provides a new perspective on traveling through Japan. Passengers on the ship glide past rugged coastlines and small towns, tiny islands and lighthouses, as the ocean stretches beyond the horizon. On the outside deck, fresh, cooling sea breezes feel relaxing and exciting at the same time.

*The ferry also passes under the Akashi Kaikyo suspension bridge across the Seto Inland Sea. (©Agnes Tandler)*

Ferry journeys in Japan often start in small port cities off the beaten track. Maizuru, in the northern part of Kyoto Prefecture, sits along the Sea of Japan. It is a charming town with red brick buildings and no crowds. Oarai, just north of Tokyo, is a quiet fishing hub in Ibaraki Prefecture with beautiful beaches and excellent seafood.

As passengers disembark from the Sunflower in Oarai, the ship's captain stands at the exit and thanks everyone with a smile. It's 2 PM in the afternoon, the perfect time for lunch. I'm off to find a seafood donburi ー a bowl of rice topped with fresh fish. After all, clams and flounder are also in season.