Hidden Wonders | A Whale Bone Bridge in Osaka Spanning Centuries

"Hakkotsu," literally "white bones," can refer to a 15th-century Buddhist text that speaks to the impermanence of life. It urges readers to look past everyday concerns and ponder deeper questions.

Thirty minutes away from the teeming tourist center of Osaka is a quiet Buddhist temple called Zuikoji. Within the temple is a bridge lined with white whale bones.

Zuikoji sits in a sleepy neighborhood in Osaka's Higashiyodogawa Ward. A stone path welcomes visitors through a gate made of two towering whale bones.

*The bridge leading to Zuikoji temple. (©Jay Alabaster)*

Over a Koi Pond, with Links to a Remote Whaling Town

The path leads to the arched whale bridge, which spans a small pond filled with speckled koi. The bridge also stretches across centuries of history and links to a tiny town hundreds of kilometers away.

Known as the Setsugei or "Snow-white Whale" Bridge, it was first built in 1756. Three hundred years ago, the head priest of the temple was on a pilgrimage when he visited the whaling town of Taiji.

The town lies over 200 kilometers away on the southern tip of the Kii Peninsula, in what is now Wakayama Prefecture. Taiji was a famous whaling town in that era but had gone through a long stretch without any catches.

Prayers for a Plentiful Hunt are Answered

The town asked the priest to pray for a plentiful hunt. He refused at first because killing is forbidden under Buddhism but relented when he saw the suffering of the locals without food or income.

With the blessings of the priest, local hunters were able to catch a whale. They delivered 18 whale bones to the temple as thanks, which were assembled into a bridge.

The white whale bridge became famous. It was depicted in manuscripts such as the Settsumeishozue, a guide to the region from the Edo Period, and was selected as one of Japan's most famous bridges. Taiji schoolchildren still visit the temple on class trips.

The entrance of Zuikoji temple. (©Jay Alabaster)

Six Generations of Whale Bones

Rebuilt every 50 years or so, it is now in its sixth generation. Originally most of the bridge was made of whale bones, but today the bones form its banisters. The current bridge, rebuilt in 2006, uses bones from the jaw and shoulders of a sei whale and vertebrae from a minke whale.

To reach Zuikoji, take the Hankyu Railway from central Osaka to Kamishinjo Station. The train ride is about 30 minutes, and the temple is roughly a 10-minute walk from the station. Just enough time for a brief ponder on life's deeper questions.

Author: Jay Alabaster