As Dazaifu Tenmangu's main hall renovation nears completion, the temporary hall designed by architect Sosuke Fujimoto draws visitors before its May dismantling.
Dazaifu Tenmangu Hidden Wonders

The temporary hall, designed to blend with the surrounding lush nature. — Dazaifu, Fukuoka Prefecture. (©Sankei by Masahiro Sakai)

Strolling along the busy approach, you pass beneath the red two-story gate and spot Dazaifu Tenmangu's temporary hall, which looks like a small wooded island floating in the sky.

The main hall, currently undergoing a major renovation that began in 2023, is an Important Cultural Property and enshrines Sugawara no Michizane, revered in Shinto as the god of learning. The renovation, including re-roofing with hiwada-buki, or cypress bark shingles, takes about three years.

During this time, the temporary hall has served as Michizane's "provisional residence." About 22 meters (72 ft) wide and 8 meters (26 ft) tall, its modern black design also draws the attention of visitors.

Visitors offer prayers at the temporary hall.

Marking a Milestone

The year 2027 marks 1,125 years since Michizane's death, and the shrine will celebrate its Shikinen Grand Festival, held once every 25 years. Michizane was both born and died on the 25th of the month, giving the number 25 special significance. The renovation has been timed to coincide with this important milestone.

"The chief priest strongly wished to create a temporary hall befitting the Reiwa era — one that would bring joy to both Michizane and visitors," a shrine representative explains.

The bowl-shaped roof of the temporary hall.

Expo's Grand Ring Architect

The temporary hall was designed by Sosuke Fujimoto, the architect behind the Grand Ring roof for Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai. Inspired by the legend of the Tobi-Ume (Flying Plum Tree), in which a plum tree beloved by Michizane flew overnight to Dazaifu, the design blends seamlessly with the lush greenery of the nearby grove, Tenjin no Mori, and the surrounding natural environment.

The temporary hall, set up for about three years during the main hall's major renovation.

More than 60 plant species grow on the roof. During the design process, Fujimoto visited the site repeatedly to choose vegetation that could be enjoyed in all four seasons. Today, birds have brought additional plants, creating even greater variety than when the hall was first completed.

In mid-May 2026, the Shosenzasai (ceremony returning the divine spirit to the main hall) will be held, and dismantling of the temporary hall will begin. Decorations from the hall will be moved to the main hall, while the roof's trees will be replanted in Tenjin no Mori and elsewhere across the shrine grounds.

The temporary hall, created with the next millennium in mind, will be on display for only about four more months.

Ema plaques with messages such as "I want to pass my exams" line the shrine, attracting students praying for success year-round.

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(Read the article in Japanese.)

Author: Masahiro Sakai, The Sankei Shimbun

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