The restaurant at the Old Sakuranomiya Public Hall. (©Sankei by Hirofumi Kakihira)
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Meiji-era Japan (1868–1912) was a time of rapid Westernization. This influence reached even architecture. A perfect example is the main entrance of the Old Sakuranomiya Public Hall in Osaka's Kita Ward. Today, it's a popular wedding venue and a symbol of early Meiji design. Until June 30, 2025, visitors can also enjoy dishes recreated from Meiji-era menus at the hall's retro and elegant restaurant.
I visited in early May. From Minami-Morimachi Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, it's just a short walk to the building, nestled among lush greenery. Its impressive main entrance is recognized as an Important Cultural Property and features six Tatsuyama stone pillars and grand doors.
Across the street stands Senpukan, another Important Cultural Property. It once served as a guest house for the Japanese Mint Bureau. Together, these buildings create a charming atmosphere that feels like stepping back into the Meiji era.
Inside the public hall, a lavish restaurant illuminated by sparkling chandeliers awaits visitors.
History and Preservation
Built in 1935 as the Meiji Emperor Memorial Hall, the Old Sakuranomiya Public Hall incorporates the main entrance from the early Meiji period Mint Foundry (now the Mint Bureau). This entrance was preserved and relocated here when the foundry was demolished. The large doors and lighting remain intact, just as they were originally installed. Today, the building is designated as a National Important Cultural Property.
The hall, where Helen Keller once spoke, closed in 2007 and remained unused for many years. Osaka City, the owner, eventually sought a company to manage the site. Novarese took on the challenge, renovating and reopening the hall in 2013 as a wedding venue and restaurant.
Because only old blueprints remained, there was little information about the original interiors or usage. Restoration was difficult. Still, preserved ceiling decorations and careful design brought the era's atmosphere back to life beautifully.
A Taste of the Meiji Era
"Welcome," said Tetsuya Ozaki, General Manager of Novarese's Osaka and Ashiya districts. The featured menu, called the "Meiji Feast," recreates dishes from the Meiji era based on historical records. It is available from April through June. I had the chance to enjoy a seven-course meal.
The appetizer was steamed salmon chaudfroid — salmon gently cooked and topped with a mayonnaise-based sauce, resting on consommé jelly. Its charming retro presentation matched the harmonious flavors: rich salmon, tangy mayonnaise, and light consommé.
For the fish course, I had sea bream stuffed inside red eggplant. The tender fish and potatoes were baked inside a tomato, balancing sweetness and acidity. Interestingly, during the Meiji period, vegetables were served before dessert to close the meal. The menu honors this tradition with asparagus, offering an experience of the dining culture of that time.
Ozaki proudly noted, "This is the only place where you can enjoy Meiji-era cuisine in a building connected to Emperor Meiji [Mutsuhito]." Immersed in this historic atmosphere, I savored the luxurious, carefully recreated dishes.
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Author: Saki Maehara, The Sankei Shimbun
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