Hidden Wonders | Grave of a Rebel Samurai in Tokyo's Otemachi

Nestled amidst the bustling skyscrapers of Tokyo's financial district, a quiet and unassuming site pays tribute to one of Japan's most enigmatic historical figures: the samurai Taira no Masakado. Located in Otemachi, this sacred grave stands as a stark reminder of Japan's rich and complex past, juxtaposed against the modernity of contemporary Tokyo.

Who Was Taira no Masakado?

Taira no Masakado (903-940) was a prominent samurai of the Heian period (794-1185) and a member of the powerful Taira clan. Known for his rebellion, Tengyo no Ran (935-940) against the central government, he declared himself Shinnou or "New Emperor" in 939. Masakado's bold move challenged the authority of the Kyoto-based imperial court.

However, Masakado's rebellion was short-lived. In 940, his forces suffered defeat, and he died in battle. Imperial forces took his severed head to Kyoto as a trophy. Later, they displayed it in the eastern provinces as a warning to potential dissenters. According to legend, his head eventually flew to what is now Otemachi, where people enshrined it to appease his restless spirit.

*Taira no Masakado (Wikimedia Commons).*

The Grave in Otemachi

The site of Masakado's grave is a small, fenced-off area surrounded by trees and shrubs, offering a serene contrast to the surrounding office buildings. Known as the Kubizuka (首墜, "head mound"), this burial mound is believed to house the remains of Masakado's head. People have venerated the site for centuries, and many locals regard it as a place of spiritual significance.

During the Edo period (1603–1868), the Tokugawa shogunate recognized the grave's importance and maintained it as a sacred site. Even as Tokyo evolved into a modern metropolis, the grave's sanctity was preserved.

Construction of a government office during the early 20th century briefly disturbed the area. Following a series of unexplained accidents and misfortunes, however, the city removed the building and restored the grave.

Legends and Superstitions

Taira no Masakado's grave is shrouded in legends and superstitions. Some believe his spirit, known as an onryo (怪霊, vengeful spirit), remains powerful and must be respected. Believers attribute mysterious occurrences, such as unexplained accidents and natural disasters, to his grave.

*Taira no Masakado's grave in Otemachi, Tokyo (©JAPAN Forward by Daniel Manning).*

One of the most famous incidents occurred in 1923 after the Great Kanto Earthquake. During the rebuilding efforts, locals strongly opposed plans to remove the grave, as they feared provoking Masakado's wrath. Even today, many companies and government institutions in the Otemachi area hold ceremonies to honor Masakado and ensure peace.

Despite its historical and cultural significance, the grave of Taira no Masakado remains relatively understated. A small stone memorial, flanked by offerings of flowers, incense, and sake, marks the site. Visitors often come to pay their respects, whether for spiritual reasons or simply to connect with Japan's past.

Takiyashahime the Sorceress

One of the most intriguing aspects of Taira no Masakado's legacy is the story of his daughter, Takiyashahime. According to folklore, after Masakado's death, Takiyashahime became a powerful sorceress who sought to avenge her father. She is often depicted in Japanese art and literature as a figure of mystique and strength, embodying both the tragedy and resilience of her lineage.

Utagawa Kuniyoshi immortalized Takiyashahime's story in his famous ukiyo-e woodblock print series, particularly in the piece "Takiyasha the Witch and the Skeleton Specter." This iconic artwork depicts Takiyashahime summoning a giant skeleton to confront the hero Mitsukuni. Utagawa's work vividly represents her supernatural powers and her role in avenging her father's honor.

*Utagawa Kuniyoshi's famous ukiyo-e, Takiyasha the Witch and the Skeleton Specter (Wikimedia Commons).*

Getting There and Other Attractions

Taira no Masakado's grave is located in the Otemachi area, easily accessible via the Tokyo Metro. Take the Chiyoda, Hanzomon, or Marunouchi Lines to Otemachi Station, and it is just a short 5-10-minute walk from there.

Nearby attractions include the iconic Tokyo Station, just a 10-minute walk away, known for its historic red-brick architecture. Visitors can also explore the nearby Imperial Palace East Gardens, which offer expansive grounds and historical ruins, perfect for a relaxing stroll. For those interested in Japanese history, Nihonbashi and Yasukuni Shrine are just a short distance away, each offering unique insights into Tokyo's cultural and wartime heritage.

Author: Daniel Manning