Hidden Wonders | Sapporo Onsen Retreat to Soothe the Weary Traveler

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In search of the perfect shot of fall foliage, I set off for Hokkaido in late autumn. After a 50-minute drive from Sapporo, I arrived at Jozankei Onsen, a retreat nestled in a valley alive with fall colors.

Known as Sapporo's hidden getaway, this scenic area features hot spring facilities scattered along both banks of a mountain stream.

*The Toyohira River reflecting autumn colors. October 22, Minami Ward, Sapporo City. (©Sankei by Yasushi Kawamura)*

Hidden but Accessible

Located in the Minami Ward of Sapporo, Jozankei is surrounded by cherry, maple, and Japanese maple trees that turn vivid shades of red and yellow. They frame the Toyohira River that flows through the heart of the valley.

Just under 30 kilometers from downtown Sapporo, the area is highly accessible, drawing around 2.5 million visitors annually. Situated within the Shikotsu-Toya National Park, Jozankei's high-quality hot springs offer relaxing warmth to invigorate weary travelers.

*Hot spring facilities surround Toyohira River. (©Sankei by Yasushi Kawamura)*

The hot spring water naturally rises from the Toyohira Riverbed, reaching around 80°C (176°F), and is a clear, sodium chloride-rich spring. With an abundant flow of 8,600 liters per minute, it's easy to see why this hot spring area is so popular.

Nature's Healing Waters

Jozankei's hot springs were first opened in 1866, during the Keio era. The springs were discovered by a monk called Miizumi Jozan with guidance from the local Ainu people. He established a healing retreat here for those suffering from illness and injury.

Jozan dedicated himself to developing the area, creating paths to the springs and laying the foundations for what Jozankei is today. His spirit of service continues to live on in this place.

*Hoheikyo Dam, located at the furthest point in the Jozankei area. It has been selected as one of the "Top 100 Water Protection Forests" and "Top 100 Dam Lakes." (©Sankei by Yasushi Kawamura)*

A Place for Reflection

When I visited in late October, the fall foliage was nearing its end, with some trees already shedding their leaves. Strong winds and rain marked the season's transition, hinting that winter was on its way.

In November, locals prepare for winter by tying ropes around shrubs to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of snow. Snow-covered Jozankei is just as captivating as it is during autumn.

"Even though it's located within a major city, it provides a place for nature-related activities. I hope visitors can feel the majesty of nature and leave refreshed," said Shinya Tachibana of the Jozankei Tourism Association.

On the way back to the airport, I enjoyed one last soak in a hot spring overlooking the valley, letting the warmth ease my body. As leaves drifted down from the branches, I reflected on monk Jozan's enduring passion for this place.