Hidden Wonders | Step Back in Time at Train-Themed Diner Hokutosei

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With a cream-colored base and red stripes along its exterior, this nostalgic diner pays tribute to the classic colors of the Japanese National Railways (JNR) limited express train. JNR operated Japan's national railway network from 1949 to 1987.

Located in Kamogawa, Chiba, the diner sits in an area once served by the limited express Wakashio series 138.

*Diner Hokutosei's color scheme was inspired by the limited express train "Wakashio." (©Sankei by Yuta Yasumoto)*

Railway Memorabilia

The diner Hokutosei, which opened in 2012, bears a sign saying "Dining Car." Its "stationmaster," Ikuo Tokuhiro, was once a chef on the dining car of the original 0 Series Shinkansen.

Inside, Tokuhiro has carefully curated a large collection of railway memorabilia, including model trains, vintage JNR electric fans, and emergency hammers, inviting guests to explore and take photos of these nostalgic items.

Among the highlights are reclining seats from a 0 Series Shinkansen green car, which some train enthusiasts visit just to experience. Outside, the diner features an interchangeable display board with options like "Charter," "Special," and destinations such as "Chiba," "Katsuura," and "Awa-Kamogawa."

Guests can even sound the train horn, known as the "typhon." Unsurprisingly, 90% of its patrons are rail enthusiasts.

*The seats on the left are from the 0 Series Shinkansen green car, while the seats on the right are from the E1 Series Shinkansen green car, and both can recline. (©Sankei by Yuta Yasumoto)*

A New Start

Tokuhiro, a Kamogawa native, opened Hokutosei a year after the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake. He had commuted over an hour each way from Kamogawa to Mobara in Chiba via the Sotobo Line, but service cuts after the earthquake made commuting difficult.

To start anew, he transformed his family home into a diner, filling it with train memorabilia he'd collected since high school.

A collection curated by Tokuhiro is on display. (©Sankei by Yuta Yasumoto)

A Tribute to the Sleeper Express

Named after the Hokutosei sleeper express that once connected Tokyo's Ueno Station and Hokkaido's Sapporo Station, the diner reflects Tokuhiro's love for rail travel. He rode the Hokutosei over 20 times.

Tokuhiro recalls choosing the name because of its familiarity among train enthusiasts, saying, "With no advertising budget, I hoped people searching for 'Hokutosei' would find us."

Originally painted in the blue-and-cream colors of the 583 series, he later switched to a more noticeable design because "it wasn't very visible in the evenings."

Hokutosei offers a menu of around 20 items, including takoyaki, yakisoba, katsu curry, and tuna tataki rice bowls. Alcoholic beverages are available, including JR Group-branded wine.

Tokuhiro runs the diner every day. "I'm at my physical limit. Hopefully, a fellow train enthusiast will take over one day," he says. "The real Hokutosei ran for 27 years before retiring, so I hope to keep mine running for at least that long."

The diner is open from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, with reservations required for entry after 7:00 PM. From April 1 to October 31, guests can enjoy a barbecue on the outdoor terrace with ocean views. The venue is also available for private events.

(Read the article in Japanese.)

Author: Yuta Yasumoto, The Sankei Shimbun

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