INTERVIEW | Sheila Cliffe on the Kimono Community and Its Future

Sheila Cliffe, widely known as kimonoSheila on Instagram, is an innovator who revitalizes the kimono as fashion. In part 1, Sheila discusses kimono and style. In part 2, JAPAN Forward investigates her thoughts on kimono and the community it supports, its online presence, and its future.

First of 2 parts

Part 1: INTERVIEW | Sheila Cliffe Life and Passion: All Wrapped in Silk

Community

What misconceptions about kimono culture or your work would you like to dismantle?

There are a lot of people who would like to dress in a more fun way. But they feel constrained by the rules and a little afraid to express themselves and experiment.

I'm a big advocate of using what you have around you. So you don't need to go and buy a kimono bag ー you can use the handbags you like and earrings you like. And if you don't have many obi, you can use a belt. There are lots of options. You can wear sneakers or boots from Dr Martin's ー it's all fashion in the end.

A big misconception is that kimono is just traditional and never changes because clearly it does [change]. There are trends ーthe Taisho period kimono (1912-1926) is different from the Sh o wa period kimono (1926-1989) and so on. It does have gentle slow trends.

Another misconception is that kimono has to be expensive. Yet another is that it's very difficult to wear. But those aren't necessarily true. Secondhand kimono are cheap. Also, some new cotton kimono are reasonably priced and not any more expensive than a decent dress.

A misconception about myself is that I wear kimono all the time. That isn't accurate. Kimono is fashion for me, so every time I wear it, it's deliberate.

Kimono in the Online Space

How did social media change the kimono industry?

This is essential. When I first came to Japan in 1985, information on kimono was all locked up between the artisans and the kimono schools. If you wanted to wear a kimono and didn't have a grandma or someone to teach you, the kimono schools were the only choice. There were a lot of books, but it's tough to learn from a series of illustrations.

The Internet changed everything. In Japan, before Facebook became popular there was Mixi. And Mixi meant that kimono wearers could talk to each other directly for the first time. People got together on Mixi and it created a gateway to the information that wasn't accessible previously. Antique aficionados started putting up blogs and they had fans. I say the Internet is the "joho tonya," the middleman for information.

The Internet keeps kimono circulating in the market and probably tens of thousands of kimono change hands every day on Rakuten, Yahoo! Auction, and Kimono Ichiba. All these big outlets sell kimono all the time.

*Sheila Cliffe explaining kimono on TV. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

What is the role of social media in your work as well as on a personal level?

My Instagram page is basically a gallery. I want to inspire people with lovely images, that's my aim. And my Instagram has almost 70,000 followers, so I think people are inspired by it. I try to keep it personal, so when people write a comment I try to reply.

It gives me a chance also to promote kimono makers who I think are doing really lovely work. That aspect is special, you can help other people in the community and most importantly the artisans gain more of an audience. I never want it to be just about me. It's not about me. I want it to be about the kimono and to make sure the kimono is the centerpiece.

Is there a downside to promoting on social media?

It's always upsetting when you get some negative comments. And it's sad because you could get like 50 or 100 good ones and then there's one bad one. I try not to let those things upset me.

The other day I wore a very loose summer kimono with no nagajuban (a simple robe worn under a kimono). It's just simple, like a taisho-style kimono, very relaxed. Somebody wrote a comment criticizing my kitsuke (way of wearing kimono). But actually, this is the style I like wearing. It's soft and kind of romantic and flowy. However, I'm not wearing it for her. No, I'm doing it for the people who do appreciate it and feel inspired by my style.

*Sheila Cliffe in an early autumn kimono reflecting the warm season. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

*The colorful kimono pattern features dragonflies. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

Looking Ahead

What do you see for the future of kimonoSheila?

People have asked me if I'm planning another book, like The Social Life of Kimono (Bloomsbury Academic, Reprint, 2017). Perhaps, but I would love to work on something with more creative freedom. Working with deadlines can be a bit limiting. It's not that I'm taking a break from books, though.

Kimono dressing is my art and I want to make interesting art. When I have enough beautiful material, perhaps if a theme emerges, it might become a book. I don't have the material I want to put into a book right now. When I do, I want the material to be there and ready [to use]. That is if I make another book.

I've also started to sew kimono. I'm going to go on taking old ones apart and re-sewing them into new ones. Although I don't have any huge plans, I'm open to new projects, I just want to continue inspiring people in whatever way I can. It could be speeches, or teaching a class, or it could be going abroad.

*Sheila Cliffe in kimono, resting under a cherry tree with her bicycle. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

What do you see for the future of the kimono industry?

Unfortunately, the whole fashion industry is in decline. The decline in the kimono market is part of that. This isn't specific to kimono. In fact, when I came [to Japan] in 1985, the only people seen wearing kimono were going to weddings, tea ceremonies, or perhaps classes. You didn't see young people wearing kimono. Now you see a lot of people wearing kimono as a form of expression.

Wearing kimono is very chic now and there are big kimono events like Kimono Salone or Tokyo Kimono Show. Those things didn't exist at all in the past, and a lot of kimono businesses are much older. So their business may shrink but kimono are not going to disappear.

There are signs of growth in the kimono rental industry, which is huge compared to when I first came to Japan. What's also popular now is menswear. It's a growing area. So I'm positive about the future of kimono.

Author: Natasha Takahashi