Sheila Cliffe 
US Navy band at the Black Ship Festival. (Photo ©Sheila Cliffe)
For all intents and purposes, it seems that May is the start of the summer festival season. Things start to heat up, in more ways than one! In Tokyo, Kanda Matsuri and Sanja Matsuri take place on the second and third weekends, but my favorite place to be on the third weekend of May is the Black Ships Festival in Shimoda.
This celebrates the arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry and his fleet of black ships, some of which were powered by steam, in 1854. At the time, I am convinced the event was not quite so wildly celebrated, but it resulted in the first treaty between an isolated Japan and a Western nation. It triggered the opening of the country at the end of the Edo period.
Blackship Festival
This historical event is celebrated annually in the Black Ships Matsuri or "Kurofune Matsuri" and this year, 2025, was the 86th festival. It is a very well-loved festival bringing people from far and wide to what is normally a sleepy fishing town at the end of the Izu Peninsula.
The celebrations last for three days and on Friday a United States Navy ship arrives from Yokosuka and moors in the bay for the duration of the festival. Fireworks celebrate the arrival of the ship.
Most years are marked by sunshine and intense heat, but this year, unfortunately, the Saturday celebration parade was washed out. However, a bit of inclement weather could not dampen the spirit of the event. Although ome performances were canceled, our annual kimono fashion show was able to take place.
Fashion and Friendship
Usually, the fashion show is on a large stage in the grounds of Ryosenji temple. This temple is of great significance as it is the location for the signing of the treaty between Japan and America. The grounds are planted with American jasmine and the sweet perfume of these purple and white flowers is what hits you first upon arrival. Because of the rain, we were permitted to perform the show inside the main temple.
Every seat was full and people in raincoats with umbrellas were sheltering under the eaves to catch a glimpse of the show. A fashion show is a chance to dress in something a little more gorgeous than usual. I wore a black summer furisode which is over a hundred years old but paired it with modern accessories for a stylish look. The dark sunglasses and hat lent it a couture feeling even though it was a kimono.
Parents and children also participated, demonstrating that kimono is for everyone. The wide variety of styles showcased was an opportunity to be inspired and especially see that there can be variety and color in men's kimono too.
Museum of Black Ships
Fashion show over, I visited the Museum of Black Ships at Ryosenji and learned a little bit about the history. It is hard to imagine that this small cove, in a location that takes longer to get to than Kyoto, was once a gateway to the West and had some of Japan's first encounters with new technologies, goods, and lifestyles.
The main route to the temple is down the straight route now called Perry Road, which goes directly to the seafront. It has buildings from the Meiji and Taisho eras on it, and the small river next to the street is lined with willow trees.
Now there are fashionable bars, restaurants, and coffee shops there. It is a great place for picturesque photoshoots with a little red bridge and all the romance of the historical buildings and willows waving by the water. One can imagine what a stir must have been caused by groups of American sailors arriving and walking up this street to the temple.
Food Stalls and Festive Sounds
After that, we hit the streets to enjoy some of the street food sellers and the entertainment around the town that cater to the visitors. The main streets are shut off to vehicles and chairs and tables enable one to partake in the pleasure of eating and drinking outside if the weather cooperates. On this day, it really didn't, so we retired to our hotel early. In the evening there were concerts with the US Navy marching band and others in the local culture center.
The main events of the festival on Sunday are a re-enactment of the treaty signing, and the parade around the town by various groups who have their skills or styles showcased. There are several bands including the one from Yokosuka, and various school bands. Minyo folk music and Okinawan drums can also be heard.
The elementary school students ride on their unicycles and everyone enjoys dressing up. It was almost like going back to the future with Star Wars characters (who certainly did not arrive on black ships), Jack Sparrow (who might have), rubbing shoulders with samurai, geisha, sea captains, and various miscellaneous Edo shopkeepers and a few ruffians, too.
The kimono group brings up the rear and we wave to the locals lining the streets. Every year, I am deeply moved by how happy the crowd is. The children wave Japanese and American flags, and parents, grandparents, and whole family groups gather at the edge of the road to clap, wave, and enjoy the parade going by.
A Modern Celebration of History
The street food sellers must have been a lot happier on Sunday While not sunny, the rain held off and people were enjoying their street food and drink. We even got up and danced to a local acoustic band playing the Beatles and Jackson Browne. There was magic, monkeys, storytelling, hip-hop, balloons and popcorn. Everyone from 2 to 102 could enjoy something out on the streets of Shimoda.
I chose to walk along the bay past all the yachts and small fishing boats to the start of Perry Road. There is a memorial here to Commodore Perry and next to it, a candle is lighted to celebrate the friendship between Japan and America.
Carnations were laid in front of the Perry memorial and looking at the candle it seemed very poignant to me. In this time of political uncertainty and unrest, I thought that the Black Ships Matsuri is extremely significant, demonstrating the best of Japan–US friendship, literally on a street level.
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Author: Sheila Cliffe
Read other columns on kimono by the author.
