Sashiko: Embroidery Craft That Made a Hollywood Star a Fan

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Sashiko (刺し子) is the traditional Japanese craft of creating geometric patterns with needle and thread on everyday fabrics. Originally a mending technique, it is now gaining recognition as a fashion statement.

Leading this revival is the "Sashiko Gals" project from Otsuchi Town, Iwate Prefecture, an area affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. Since its launch on March 11, 2024, the group has been praised for its handcrafted sashiko sneakers and other items.

*Sashiko stitching on sneakers requires strength and patience.*

How It Began

The 15 project members carefully stitch indigo-dyed and vintage fabrics onto sneakers using zigzag and straight patterns, seamlessly crossing leather, rubber, and resin.

The members are women aged 40 to 80 who live in Otsuchi and were affected by the 2011 disaster. At their biannual order-taking event, they receive sneakers from customers and add sashiko designs with meticulous care.

For Kanako Sasaki, one of the members, her sashiko journey began in the summer of 2011 at a local community center. Introduced by volunteers, she started stitching dishcloths for ¥500 JPY (about $3 USD) per piece as a side job.

*Kanako Sasaki, a member of Sashiko Gals.*

Before the disaster, she worked at a seafood processing plant that was damaged by the tsunami. "I felt I needed to work, and I also wanted to do something different even if the plant was rebuilt," she recalls.

Fellow member Kaori Kurosawa joined later and enjoys the orderly rhythm of creating the patterns. "Sashiko has become a part of my daily life," she says.

*Kaori Kurosawa, a member of Sashiko Gals.*

Finding Global Acclaim

The driving force behind Sashiko Gals is Arata Fujiwara, the head of Tokyo-based apparel company MOONSHOT. After the earthquake, he commissioned sashiko work from the people of Otsuchi.

In 2016, he launched the apparel brand KUON, incorporating sashiko and indigo dyeing into its designs. When sashiko-embellished jackets debuted at New York Fashion Week, the embroidery technique was thrust into the global spotlight.

*A glimpse of the "Sashiko Gals" at work. With each layer of vintage fabric and stitch, the sneakers take on more character. (Courtesy of MOONSHOT)*

However, over time, orders for Otsuchi's sashiko work declined due to fewer disaster relief events and the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.

"My brand's sashiko items sell well, and there's strong respect for the craft from overseas," Fujiwara reflects. "I realized that with the right approach, this could become a powerful business." This realization led to the launch of a project where customers could customize their fashion items with sashiko patterns.

A Fan from Hollywood

In December 2024, Sashiko Gals received an unexpected message via their official Instagram account from a representative of Justin Timberlake — the American actor, singer, and former member of NSYNC. The message said Timberlake was a big fan of Sashiko Gals and requested a pair of sashiko sneakers as a birthday gift.

*Members of the Sashiko Gals with Arata Fujiwara (foreground). (Courtesy of MOONSHOT)*

Fujiwara's vision is taking shape, with high-profile clients, including Hong Kong actors and Japanese rock musicians, seeking out sashiko pieces.

Collaborations have expanded beyond fashion, with sashiko work adorning chair seats and sofas for The Conran Shop. Now, major brands are reaching out to explore official partnerships, and preparations are underway.

Sashiko Dreams

Sashiko work is physically demanding. After two hours of stitching, hands become sore, and completing a single pair of sneakers can take over a month, often breaking four needles in the process. Yet, when the members gather to work, the atmosphere is always lively and filled with laughter.

This lively atmosphere inspired the project's name. "Watching them chat and laugh over snacks between stitching sessions made me think," Fujiwara recalls. "They were like gyaru [ギャル]!"

"Gyaru," derived from the English word "gal," refers to a Japanese fashion subculture popularized in the 1990s, characterized by bold fashion choices, heavy makeup, and a rebellious attitude.

With just a needle and thread, anyone can create sashiko anywhere, anytime. Moving beyond disaster relief, the group's ultimate goal is to establish sashiko as a sustainable business and contribute to regional revitalization. As the project members aim to make sashiko a globally recognized term, that vision seems increasingly within reach.

The Tokyo Creative Salon 2025 (TCS2025), a celebration of Japanese fashion, crafts, and design capturing global attention, has kicked off in 10 areas across Tokyo, including Ginza, Harajuku, and Roppongi. Sashiko Gals held workshops on March 22 and 23 at the Marunouchi Building, with sashiko sneakers on display starting March 21. For details on TCS2025 events, visit the official website.