The Rare Black Onsen in Niigata Drawing Shogi Fans

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Iwamuro Onsen is situated on the Echigo Plain. The vast plain extends from central to northern Niigata Prefecture along the western coast of Japan's Honshu Island.

Located in Niigata City's Nishikan Ward, Iwamuro is known for its distinctive black hot spring water, attracting both domestic and international visitors.

Since 2022, shogi prodigy Sota Fujii, who holds seven major titles, has held matches at Iwamuro for three consecutive years, drawing fans from across Japan.

*The foot bath at the Iwamuroya tourist information center in Iwamuro Onsen with black hot spring water. (©Sankei by Kenichi Honda)*

Dreaming of Onsen

To reach Iwamuro Onsen, take the Hokuriku Expressway and exit at the Maki-Katahigashi Interchange, then drive for about 20 minutes through a peaceful rural area.

The quaint town features a mix of inns and homes, with friendly residents offering a warm "konnichiwa" to passersby.

Iwamuro has a history dating back to 1713, during the mid-Edo period. According to legend, the onsen was discovered by a village elder who dreamt of a white-haired old man, who advised: "If you bathe in the sacred spring beneath the old pine tree at the edge of the village, it will heal various ailments."

Following this guidance, villagers found a heron soothing its wounds in the spring.

Where to Visit

Visitors should begin at Iwamuroya, the local tourist information center. Here, they can sample local specialties, get sightseeing recommendations, and unwind in a free foot bath with Iwamuro's famous black waters.

There are only a few black hot springs in Japan. At Iwamuro, the unique color comes from sulfur and iron combining to form ferrous sulfide. The fine black particles give the water its tint. Known for its beauty benefits, the bath is also believed to help with nerve pain, chronic digestive issues, and sensitivity to cold.

Glamour model and onsen sommelier Rin Takahashi attended an event at Iwamuro Onsen in September. She described the water as "incredibly gentle on the skin and soothing to the core." To enhance its beautifying effects, she recommended applying moisturizer within ten minutes of leaving the bath.

For those seeking a quick soak, the day-use hot spring is a great option. Just a five-minute walk from the tourist information center is Hoho, an inn offering scenic views of the Echigo Plain and Mount Yahiko.

For ¥1,353 JPY (about $9 USD), visitors can enjoy its outdoor bath and rent face and body towels. Bathing amid the sounds of nature makes for a truly relaxing experience.

The Shogi Connection

Recently, Iwamuro Onsen has seen an increase in inbound visitors. Motoko Takashima, the proprietor of the historic inn Takashimaya, shared that foreign guests are often intrigued by the black water.

Takashimaya has hosted the Kisei title matches 26 times. Sota Fujii, holder of seven titles, including Ryuo, Meijin, Oi, Oza, Kio, and Osho, has competed there for three consecutive years since 2022. Fans are often seen taking photos outside the inn.

*Takashimaya in Iwamuro Onsen, Niigata. (©Sankei by Kenichi Honda)*

Nishikan Ward, home to Iwamuro Onsen, is also famous for its local produce branded as Nishikan Nana-iro Vegetables. The brand includes about 30 varieties, such as white eggplants, pink turnips, and colorful tomatoes and bell peppers. Some of these have even been served to Fujii during his stays at Takashimaya.

In autumn, there's no better way to unwind than to enjoy the fall foliage followed by a soothing soak in the black waters of Iwamuro Onsen.

*Motoko Takashima, the proprietor of onsen inn Takashimaya, holds up a book featuring "tsume shogi" (shogi miniature problem) written by Sota Fujii in 2023. (©Sankei by Kenichi Honda)*

About Iwamuro Onsen

Iwamuro Onsen, often called the "back parlor of Niigata City," is located in Nishikan Ward. It is also a popular destination for visitors to the famous Yahiko Shrine.

The onsen can be reached by taking the Yahiko Line and Echigo Line to Iwamuro Station, followed by a 10-minute drive. Alternatively, it's about a 20-minute drive from the Maki-Katahigashi Interchange on the Hokuriku Expressway.