Daniel Moore, Active Travel 
(©Daniel Moore)
ー John Mayer
Departing Sakudaira Station on the Koumi Line, Nagano Prefecture, apartment buildings quickly become single-standing homes. In turn, those transform into freshly planted rice paddies, then mountains. I place a can of cold, black coffee on the windowsill next to my hiking pack and poles.
At home, nothing tastes better than a hot cup of freshly ground coffee made with decent beans. But before a trip, like a Pavlovian dog, the stale, cold coffee makes me excited for the upcoming adventure. For some reason, the food on a long trip tastes better, too. A granola bar and some unsalted nuts are all you need to feast like a king.
I ride this train for the sole reason that I have never done so before. The mountain climber in me needs no excuse other than the mountain (or train line) existing. I'm also a sucker for roads I have never driven. Finally, having the time to take a slow train is also no small luxury after a long spring season filled with work trips.
Still, I cannot appreciate leisure without the busyness. I am thankful for each. During the pandemic, a chain of unbroken holidays was a burden, not a privilege, for a restless soul like me.
Stepping On from the First 'Shuten'
Today, my plans extend no further than riding the train, alighting where I fancy, walking, and seeing what I encounter.
The first surprise occurs when, lost in thought, I finally notice, "Gosh, this is a long stop." The conductor gestures, then gruffly says, "We have reached the Shuten, the final stop." Matsubarako, the station I intend to visit, is two stops and 4 kilometers away. "It's going to be a while until the next train," he says casually. By this, he means a train will arrive in two and a half hours.
That is how I find myself walking to Matsubarako Station along a beautiful countryside road lined with rice paddies, rivers, and carefully manicured gardens, with an equal number of abandoned homes. When I finally arrive, Lake Matsubarako, set against the snow-capped Yasugatake range, resembles a postcard. But I rather prefer the walk. It's often the unexpected stops and so-called mishaps that prove the most memorable.
Slow Discoveries of the Small and Vanishing
The train ride and long walk provide ample time to ruminate. This was my true aim: uninterrupted time to think. I look around and consider rural depopulation, where villages across Japan like this one are disappearing. There is loneliness, but also beauty in the desolation. The abandoned homes contain memories.
It saddens me to see communities vanishing. But developed lands returning to the wild doesn't seem like the worst outcome either. The far more common human tendency of developing wild places into concrete jungles seems the bigger travesty. Although Japan faces economic challenges due to its demographic situation, there may be benefits in ways we cannot yet calculate or see.
With population decline comes the loss of small train lines, too. For this, I feel unqualified lament. I still remember my fourth-grade teacher in Japanese elementary school, who bemoaned the loss of a train line due to the construction of the bullet train in preparation for the 1998 Winter Olympics. "We used to relax and enjoy the obento box to Tokyo. Now, by the time you realize it, you are already there."
As a teacher, he must have enjoyed the enforced break away from students. As an adult, I finally understand the luxury of not being rushed.
My Favorite Local Lines
Japan still boasts hundreds of local train lines across its 47 prefectures. I can only discuss Nagano Prefecture with any authority. Wherever you find yourself, there is bound to be a lonely train line with plenty to explore, though.
The Iiyama Line
The Iiyama Line starts at Nagano Station, going North into Niigata Prefecture. The countryside in both prefectures is mountainous, sparsely populated, and receives copious snowfall.
At Togari Nozawa Station, almost everyone alights. The already minuscule three-car train detaches, and a single car continues its solitary journey North. Don't worry, hardly anyone rides the train, so there are plenty of seats. This is where the real viewing action begins.
Following the winding Chikuma River, one understands how aptly the "river of a thousand turns" is named. It winds its way through steep valleys and mountains, twisting, turning, and ever-expanding on its path to the Sea of Japan. For a small country, the volume of water available in Japan is mind-boggling.
For bonus points, read Yasunari Kawabata's Snow Country (Penguin Books, English translation) while taking the trip, as the novel takes place in nearby Yuzawa. Some things have changed since the days of the novel, but I suspect not as much as one would think.
Nagano Dentetsu
While more agricultural and suburban, the Nagano Dentetsu Line offers equally stunning views of Nagano's mountains. The line might sound familiar to those who have visited the world-famous Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.
Because it is a private line, it holds the dubious distinction of being the most expensive in Japan, considering the distance it covers. However, on a clear day, the Hokushin Gogaku (Five Peaks) range is capped with snow and majestic, reminiscent of the Swiss Alps.
I have climbed and snowboarded all of them, and I highly recommend an extended stay in the area, regardless of the season. In the summer and autumn, the ride is a veritable safari of fruit and vegetable farms. Everyone is a farmer in the countryside, and peeking into people’s gardens feels like a window to the soul of the Japanese countryside. I admire this region so much I even named my Airbnbs after the peaks.
The Chuo Line
The Shinano Express Line runs three hours between Nagano and Nagoya. While far from a bullet train, the express train still rushes past the Kiso Valley with disheartening speed. The narrow valley, rushing river, charming villages, and changing scenery rushing past make you wish the train would go slower.
To really stop and smell the roses, take a local train on the Chuo Line between Matsumoto and Nakatsugawa Stations. The line shares a name with the Chuo Line in Tokyo running from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku and beyond. Otherwise, the lines share nothing else in common.
In the Kiso Valley, the trains are more frequent, allowing visitors to get off and explore before hopping back on. Well-marked trails and the popularity of the Nakasendo trail make finding your way in the Kiso Valley a cinch.
Conclusion
When planning a Japan itinerary, it is tempting to plan every minute, not wanting to waste any precious sightseeing time. It's scary, but I recommend leaving a blank page in the calendar.
You might meet someone who recommends a spot not in the guidebooks, or you may need a day to relax. And of course, you may take a slow train to the end of the line.
At the end, I often wish I could continue further. In those moments, I think about John Mayer's words and the need to slow down. I want my life to be a local train stopping along the way, not an express whizzing by the important moments. A single-car train is a physical reminder to stop, relax, and breathe. The great thing is, you never know what you will encounter along the way.
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Author: Daniel Moore
Learn more about the wild side of Japan through Daniel’s essays. Leave questions or comments in the section below, or reach Daniel through Active Travel Japan.
