On August 15, the anniversary of Japan's surrender in World War II, Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo again became the focal point of national reverence and neighborhood controversy. Yasukuni, which enshrines Japan's war dead, has long been a source of tension between Japan and its neighbors, China and South Korea. These countries view Yasukuni as a symbol of militarism. Visits by Japanese officials are often met with strong condemnation.
This year was no exception. Chinese state media outlet Xinhua criticized Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida for making an offering to the shrine. Other Japanese lawmakers visited the shrine in person. Xinhua's report labeled Yasukuni as a "symbol of brutal militarism." Moreover, it accused Japanese leaders of consistently "hurting the feelings" of people in China and South Korea.
South Korea's Ministry of Foreign Affairs expressed "deep disappointment and regret" over the visits. A ministry spokesperson described Yasukuni as a place that "glorifies past wars of aggression and enshrines war criminals."
Such perspectives are well-publicized. However, they miss the mark when it comes to understanding Yasukuni Shrine's significance for many Japanese people and even some foreign visitors.
Far from being a symbol of militarism, for many, Yasukuni is a place of personal and national reflection. It is a site where they can honor those who sacrificed their lives, not for conquest, but for their country and families.
Personal Remembrance and National Memory
For many Japanese, the shrine is more a place of personal and national remembrance. This is evident in the voices of those who visit the shrine, particularly on August 15, when thousands come to honor the memory of those who died in service to the nation.
One such visitor is Ueyama, a 25-year-old who has made it a tradition to visit Yasukuni every year on this day. "My paternal and maternal grandfathers' brothers died in the war," he explains. "So, every year on August 15, I come here all the way from Mie Prefecture to pay my respects." When asked about criticism from South Korea and China, he expressed skepticism. "I wonder whether it is right to protest against paying respects to those who died thinking of their country and family," he remarked.
Younger generations also find meaning in the shrine, though through their own perspectives. Yoshino, a teenager, visits Yasukuni every year to honor his great-great-grandfather. "I think we mustn't forget about war," he says. "At the very least, we mustn't forget the people who died in the war."
A Place of Gratitude and Education
For Tsuda, another visitor, Yasukuni represents an appreciation for those who protected the country. "I offered my gratitude today to those who protected this country," he says. "They've allowed me, my children, and everyone else to live happily and pursue what we love." He smiles, looking down at his son.
Tsuda also emphasizes the importance of educating children about the shrine and the history it represents. "It's essential to teach them about the fact that war happened, why people died, and what Japan's role was," he adds.
To those who served in Japan's Self-Defense Forces (JSDF), Yasukuni holds a particular significance. Abe, a former member of the Japan Ground Self-Defense Force, has been visiting the shrine annually with his young child since leaving the JSDF. "My predecessors fought for Japan," he says. "I believe that Japan exists today thanks to those who came before us and fought."
Abe sees Yasukuni as a place to honor the sacrifices of those who served. And he believes it is important to pass this understanding on to his children.
Through Foreign Eyes
Foreigners are less common at Yasukuni on August 15, but those who do visit often bring a different perspective and open mind.
Adrien, a visitor from Spain, admits that he knew little about Yasukuni before coming to Japan. "We (he and his female companion) happened to be here in Tokyo for a few days, and August 15 was one of them," he says. "I saw while researching that Yasukuni was an homage to the soldiers from wars. Today was their anniversary, so I thought it could be cool to come today." For Adrien, the visit is more of a cultural experience, an opportunity to observe a significant Japanese tradition.
Vinay Dodderi, a visitor from India, offers yet another perspective. He acknowledges the controversy surrounding Yasukuni but views the shrine as a place of ancestral respect. "Many Japanese fought and died for Indian independence," he says, noting that he has visited Yasukuni several times before. Dodderi considers the shrine a place where it is "normal to pay respect to your ancestors."
Youthful Insights
Similarly, Aihara, a 20-year-old Japanese visitor, reflects on the complex emotions tied to Yasukuni. "Personally, I have no intention of supporting acts of war or past wars," she says. "But I do see (Yasukuni) as an opportunity to reflect on the past." Her perspective is a reminder that Yasukuni's significance is deeply personal and varied, shaped by individual experiences and reflections rather than by political agendas.
Other younger visitors included Igarashi and Takashima, two girls who came to Yasukuni seeking a deeper understanding of Japan's wartime history.
"While I knew about the war, I realized I didn't fully understand what actually happened," says Igarashi. "I thought maybe I could understand it better by visiting Yasukuni Shrine."
The experience left a strong impression on her. She found the personal letters and photographs of kamikaze fighters displayed at the shrine museum particularly moving. "When you see the photos and letters displayed together, you start to see them as real people," she reflects.
Beyond Controversy
The narrative that Yasukuni is inherently controversial ignores the broader context in which it exists. Yasukuni is not a symbol of Japan's past militarism. People come to the shrine to grapple with the legacies of war, to remember loved ones, and to reflect on the cost of peace.
Whether they are Japanese citizens or foreign tourists, the perspectives of those who visit Yasukuni reveal a much deeper understanding of the shrine's significance. This contrasts sharply with the condemnations from China and South Korea.
As Tsuda aptly puts it, "Japan has a responsibility to send a clear message that corrects these misconceptions." And perhaps, in doing so, the true significance of Yasukuni Shrine can be better understood by all.
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Author: Daniel Manning
