INTERVIEW | Crafting Denim Perfection and the Future with Ken-ichi Iwaya

Globally renowned, pure blue japan® is a denim brand known for its dedication to craftsmanship and tradition. In part one, founder and CEO Ken-ichi Iwaya shared the brand's rich history and the meticulous process behind crafting its iconic jeans. In part two, JAPAN Forward delves deeper into the artistry behind the brand with the founder.

Iwaya shares insights into the steps that go into making Japanese denim and insights from loyal customers. He finishes with an assessment of this storied industry's upcoming challenges. Excerpts follow.

Read part one: INTERVIEW | 'pure blue japan' CEO Iwaya On His Passion for Denim

Craftsmanship & Quality

*pure blue japan® founder Ken-ichi Iwaya, in his shop in Harajuku, Tokyo. (©JAPAN Forward)*

How are the jeans dyed?

We use natural indigo grown in Tokushima, Japan. We dye and weave it there, and make the jeans using only materials from that region. It starts with planting the seeds. From planting to dyeing, the entire process takes one year.

The dye has to be prepared manually. The amount of denim we produce is enormous, and every bit is dyed by hand. Our production timeline is dictated by when the jeans are finished.

Even just dyeing a simple T-shirt is hard work! So you can only imagine the effort it takes to dye every thread used in our jeans. The intensity of the color depends on how many times the fabric is dyed. The deepest indigo color requires about 15 rounds of dyeing.

Denim 'Made in Japan'

Why do you think it's important to maintain denim production in Japan?

Production is critical. The machines we use are no longer being manufactured. Since no new machines are being made, production volume is naturally limited. Even if there's demand for 100 units, if the machines can only produce 50 per year, that's the max — 50. That's part of what gives Japanese denim its rarity.

*A sewing machine in the upper floor of pure blue japan® shop in Harajuku, Tokyo. (©JAPAN Forward)*

Some might think that if you just invest a lot of money, you could build a brand-new, high-functioning machine that does the same thing. And that's true. But how many decades would it take to recover the costs? That's why nobody does it.

Creating special fabrics that no one else has is the most crucial aspect for us. Our customers are those who appreciate that quality. Simply increasing production wouldn't necessarily increase our customer base.

How important is the 'Made in Japan' process to the product your customers want?

Every step of making our jeans happens in Japan, and that's something customers really appreciate. Sometimes, our customers know more about our production process than we do!

A lot of foreign customers also love hearing the story behind our product. In our physical store, about 95% of the customers are foreigners. We don't ship directly from Japan to customers abroad. Instead, we ask customers to buy locally. Right now, the Japanese yen is weak, so things are about half the price here compared to what they would be overseas.

Twice a year, we attend overseas exhibitions, traveling the world — Europe, the United States, Southeast Asia — visiting all our wholesale clients and promoting our products.

Brands versus Fast Fashion

*pure blue japan® shop display in Harajuku, Tokyo. (©JAPAN Forward)*

How do you compare cheap and expensive denim designs and fast fashion?

Brands like Hermès focus on soft, luxurious fabrics rather than jeans that fade over time. Their products resemble denim but often aren't meant to function as true jeans. Louis Vuitton also makes jeans, including monogrammed designs, but they aren't exactly everyday wear.

On the other end of the spectrum, you have fast fashion brands like UNIQLO and Zara. Uniqlo produces some of its denim in Japan, often in the same factories that we use. However, their priority is affordability.

To weave fabric at high speed, you need high-quality raw materials that can withstand that speed. Considering the price, they're probably the best in the world. I don't think any other company could make products of that quality at that price. However, Uniqlo's target is everyone in the world. Their silhouettes are designed to be universally wearable. They're limited in that sense.

Challenges Ahead

How have you seen denim production change?

There's a huge supply shortage right now. The machines are limited, so the production capacity is capped. There are many small Japanese denim brands like ours, and we all operate the weaving machines non-stop.

That means no new brands can enter the market. But running the equipment like that also comes with risk. Keeping the machines running means we have to keep buying fabric constantly. It's a mutual risk for both the manufacturers and us.

What are the biggest challenges of operating a denim company?

When it comes to garment production, all the skilled artisans are aging. That will be an increasing challenge in the future.

In my opinion, a true craftsman is someone who can create things that don't yet exist — someone who can tackle something they've never done before and make it work. For example, when it comes to sewing machines, they don't just say, "I'll do it"; they start by making the necessary parts themselves. But now, those kinds of people are disappearing.

Honestly, it's impossible to pass it down. Weaving fabric doesn't make you rich. Even sewing machine technicians don't necessarily live comfortably. There are too many professions in this industry that go unnoticed and unappreciated, so it's hard to keep going.

That's why pure blue japan's® products are in demand. Right now, I can say, "I want to create something like this," and there are still experienced craftsmen who will say, "Yeah, we might be able to do that." That's what makes it possible.

Once those skilled veterans are gone and the younger generation in sales just tells us, "That's impossible," then it all ends there. Unless there are people willing to give it a try, it's going to be really tough.

Author: Natasha Takahashi