While Edo Day comes only once a year, Kawagoe is a great place to visit wearing kimono in any season ー and it's within easy reach of Tokyo for a day trip.
Sheila Cliffe Kawagoe Edo Day kimono IMG_1322

The author at a kimono event for Edo Day in Kawagoe, wearing a kimono of fabric she designed. (©Sheila Cliffe)

On March 29, I took a trip back to the Edo period. My train went to Kawagoe, which is the location of "Ichiban Gai" or First Street. This street is composed of historical buildings, mainly storehouses, that have survived from the Meiji period

Kawagoe is an old castle town with a long history, and it has many shrines and temples. It also hosts a lot of "matsuri" or festivals throughout the year. So, what was the reason behind starting a new one? 

(Photo of Edo Day sponsor’s poster advertising the event. ©Sheila Cliffe)

Kawagoe is often referred to as "Koedo" or little Edo. The shopkeepers' mutual association of Ichiban Gai, which includes the famous storehouses and the bell tower, decided in 2016 that once a year, it would be nice to give visitors an Edo-style welcome to the city. After a three-year break during the pandemic, 2025 was the seventh time the event had taken place. 

The date marks the beginning of Kawagoe's spring festivals, which continue for a month. It is also one of the rare days when Ichiban Gai is closed to traffic, and one can walk safely anywhere along the street. This is a welcome change as the street is normally very crowded with traffic and tourists. 

(©Sheila Cliffe)

Edo Day in 2025

The first thing I noticed was the number of people in kimono. Despite the rain, many families and couples had come to enjoy the festival wearing kimono. A large proportion wore Kawagoe cotton kimono, touzan, or checked yellow or red kimono with black satin collars. They are like the ones seen in historical dramas. 

Not only visitors but many shopkeepers also wore kimono, both men and women. Their hair was done up in Edo-style nihongami (hairstyle). Many of the men had wigs to make them look like samurai, and those with long hair wore it in a ponytail like ronin

(©Sheila Cliffe)

There was a local vegetable stand with Edo staff, a farmer, and a garbage collector ensuring that everything dropped would be recycled properly. The officials carried samurai swords and wore black formal kimono, hakama, and helmets. Travelers had casual kimono, sometimes with aprons, and carried furoshiki. 

(©Sheila Cliffe)
(©Sheila Cliffe)

The rain could not stop people from enjoying the time slip to Edo. At various places around the streets, there were performing groups to entertain visitors. There were period dramas, singing of traditional children's songs, shamisen, and kagura (Shinto music and dance) performances. 

Samurai on the Street

One of the highlights of the day was the parade of samurai warriors put on by the Kawagoe Tourist Association. They were dressed up in full samurai armor. Samurai armor is very complex in construction, with colorful leg and arm guards, breastplates, and shoulder protectors, as well as ornate helmets. They carried the flags of various clans and had tabi and straw sandals on their feet. These Edo-period samurai also carried muskets with them. They were an impressive sight marching down the street. 

(©Sheila Cliffe)
(©Sheila Cliffe)

At various intervals, the samurai stopped in the street, and on command, they shot their muskets into the air. This produced a surprisingly loud sound as smoke swirled out from the guns. It was powerful to experience such close quarters. That they could strike terror into the hearts of ordinary people back in the Edo period wouldn't be surprising. 

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Sharing and Showing Edo Culture

There was a demonstration in the street on how to do Edo-period Japanese hairstyles. At a stand called "Japanese Hand Work," an expert in Japanese hairstyles was working on a samurai to produce his topknot, which was an important symbol of his status.

(©Sheila Cliffe)

The tourist office had a display of Kawagoe's touzan kimono. They included the new kimono cloth that I designed to celebrate the relationship between Kawagoe and Nagasaki! The history of this historic cotton striped fabric that was so popular with working people at the end of the Edo period. 

While Edo Day may only come once a year, Kawagoe is always celebrating its history throughout the year. It is a great place to visit wearing kimono in any season. With its local delicacies and historic sites, Kawagoe won't let you forget its attraction as a spot for a great day out within easy reach of Tokyo. 

(©Sheila Cliffe)

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Author: Sheila Cliffe 

Read other columns on kimono by the author.

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