Popular ekiben Fresh Conger Eel Rice, prepared in a kitchen inside the station — October, Hiroshima City.
Japan Railways Group companies and regional ekiben makers are working to have ekiben recognized as a nationally registered Intangible Cultural Property. The term "ekiben" is a portmanteau of "eki" (station) and "bento" (boxed meal). These boxed meals have become a ubiquitous part of long-distance train travel in Japan.
However, as faster trains shorten travel times and convenience stores become more widespread, the number of ekiben businesses has fallen to about 20% of its peak. This has left the industry "on the verge of survival," according to a JR official.
Celebrating 140 Years
The year 2025 marks the official 140th anniversary of ekiben sales. A project highlighting their cultural value, including unique cooking techniques and the preservation of local cuisine, aims to revitalize this tradition.
The origins of ekiben vary by account, but the first is said to have been sold in 1885 at Utsunomiya Station. It consisted of two rice balls sprinkled with sesame salt and containing pickled plum, accompanied by two slices of pickled daikon, all wrapped in bamboo leaves and sold for five sen (one-hundredth of a yen).
In 1889, a makunouchi-style ekiben (a boxed meal with small portions of assorted dishes) appeared at Himeji Station. As railway lines expanded and long-distance trains began operating, demand for meals onboard grew. By the late 19th century, regional ekiben featuring local specialties were being sold across Japan.
Seeking Cultural Recognition
The idea of seeking intangible cultural property status for ekiben came from Yoshifumi Okuyama, section chief of the West Japan Railway Company's Railway Culture Promotion Office.
In 2023, he was stationed at Hiroshima Ekibento, a bento maker at Hiroshima Station established in 1901. The shop is famous for anago (conger eel), and its preparation area is always filled with the enticing aroma of grilled eel skin.
While there, he heard company president Kazuo Nakajima remark, "Convenience stores, which provide uniformly tasty products nationwide, represent civilization, whereas ekiben, offering distinctive local foods, represent culture." This comment inspired Okuyama to explore ekiben in depth.
Preserving Local Cuisine
Okuyama's research was selected for a 2024 program by the Agency for Cultural Affairs and compiled into a report over the course of a year. The study traced how ekiben have endured, preserving regional flavors and cooking methods even as local dishes disappeared due to the unavailability of traditional ingredients.
Consumer surveys also found that ekiben give travelers an opportunity to experience local food culture, as labor-intensive local dishes are increasingly disappearing from home dining tables.
"I had never considered the connection with preserving local cuisine, but now I clearly see it," Nakajima said. "Ekiben can be seen as an important asset of the railway industry, and I want to pass them on to the next generation."
Industry Challenges
According to the Japan Railway In‑Station Sales Central Association, which represents ekiben vendors operating in JR stations, membership peaked at around 400 companies in 1967. At that time, Japan's population had exceeded 100 million, and rail travel was increasing due to mass employment migration.
Today, membership has fallen to 82 companies. Shorter train dwell times, aimed at operational efficiency, have also led to the disappearance of platform-side vendors. More recently, soaring costs for ingredients such as rice have further squeezed profits.
Hiroshima Ekibento's popular Shamoji Kakimeshi, an oyster bento served in a rice-paddle-shaped container and a specialty of Hiroshima and Miyajima, has been pulled from sale since September 2024. The move comes as both the container and the oysters have become too expensive.
Revitalization Efforts
The Agency for Cultural Affairs program is now in its second year. Seven leading ekiben makers from across the country have joined the initiative. JR West, JR Hokkaido, JR East, JR Central, JR Shikoku, and JR Kyushu are also cooperating in information outreach.
The industry hopes to revitalize itself by installing panels in station shops that showcase the history of ekiben and regional specialties, while also promoting rail travel. "Our role as railway operators," Okuyama said, "is to use ekiben as a new way to encourage people to visit places in person."
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(Read the article in Japanese.)
Author: The Sankei Shimbun
