Culture

Ehime Sake Using Unique Flower Yeast Shines at Global Competition

Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo, a gold medal winner at the International Wine Challenge, is part of a sake series brewed using yeast strains from an Ehime flower.

Published

1 month ago

August 5, 2024

Koji Maekawa

The award-winning Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo is part of a series of sake brewed from Sakura Hime, a flower unique to Ehime. (Courtesy of Ehime Prefecture Sake Brewers Association)

Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo won a gold medal in the Junmai Ginjo category at the 2024 International Wine Challenge sake division. Notably, this sake is brewed using yeast extracted from Sakura Hime, a Delphinium flower unique to Ehime Prefecture.

The award-winning sake is produced by Matsuyama-based Minakuchi Shuzo brewery. It is part of a sake series called "Sakura Hime," which includes sake produced by 22 Ehime breweries using four yeast strains derived from the Sakura Hime flower. The yeast strains were isolated through collaborative research conducted by the Ehime Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, Ehime Prefecture, and Tokyo University of Agriculture.

Hiroshi Ochi, the chairperson of the Ehime Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, stated, "We hope that the prefecture's breweries will work together to showcase Ehime sake on the international stage."

*Members of the Ehime Prefecture Sake Brewers Association promote the Sakura Hime series at a sake fair in Tokyo. (Courtesy of Minakuchi Shuzo)*

Aromatic and Fruity

Kosuke Minakuchi, the Executive Director of Minakuchi Shuzo, expressed his delight at receiving the gold medal: "I am extremely proud that our Sakura Hime sake has achieved global recognition."

Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo is made from a yeast strain isolated and cultivated in 2022. Produced exclusively in Ehime, the sake features locally sourced Shizuku Hime rice and underground water from the Ishizuchi Mountain range. As a result, it has been praised for its vivaciousness and fruity notes of green apple.

Announced in March 2023 alongside the other sakes in the Sakura Hime series, Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo's initial batch of 1,500 bottles (720ml each) sold out by summer 2023. After doubling production in winter 2023, an additional 3,000 bottles were released this spring. Its gold medal win at the International Wine Challenge in June led to a further surge in orders, resulting in another complete sell-out within the month.

Kosuke Minakuchi remarked, "With our growing understanding of the yeast's unique characteristics, we aim to produce even finer sake. We also plan to increase production and expand our distribution channels."

*Minakuchi Shuzo's Executive Director Kosuke Minakuchi holds up a bottle of Nikitatsu Junmai Ginjo. (©Sankei by Koji Maekawa)*

Academia-Government-Industry Collaboration

The Sakura Hime yeast strains were developed four years ago. During the COVID-19 pandemic, restrictions on alcohol service caused severe economic challenges for restaurants and local breweries. With sake consumption already in decline across Japan, the Ehime Prefecture Sake Brewers Association aimed to rejuvenate interest in sake in the post-COVID era by developing a new brand.

The Sakura Hime initiative places emphasis on the concept of terroir. A French term originating from "terre" (land), terroir refers to the "sense of place" of a wine. It encompasses the climate, terrain, regionality, and culture of where the wine was produced.

"Like champagne from France's Champagne region, we aimed to create a unique sake exclusive to Ehime," Chairman Hiroshi Ochi shared.

To capture Ehime's "sense of place," the focus turned to yeast, a crucial element in sake production. Chairman Ochi collaborated with a research lab at Tokyo University of Agriculture, leveraging his connections there. He also secured support from the Ehime Prefecture Food Industry Research Center. By 2022, they had successfully isolated and cultivated four yeast strains from the Sakura Hime flower.

The Sakura Hime Delphinium, a unique variety from Ehime Prefecture, is noted for its delicate pink color, reminiscent of cherry blossoms. (Courtesy of the Ehime Prefecture Food Industry Research Center)

Spreading Sakura Hime to the World

Each of the four yeast strains developed for the Sakura Hime series boasts unique characteristics. "Tropical" is noted for its fruity and aromatic scent. "Clear" is recognized for its crisp and smooth texture. "Well-Balanced" harmonizes aroma, acidity, and sweetness, and "Rich" is characterized by a robust fragrance and refreshing acidity.

Out of the 34 sake producers in the prefecture, 22 participated in the initiative. Their new sake varieties were first unveiled in the summer of 2022.

The series officially launched in March 2023. It was backed by the prefectural government and promotional campaigns both in Japan and internationally, including in Taiwan. The launch proved successful, with 23 breweries releasing 35 labels in FY 2025 (ending next March). They were presented at a sake fair in Tokyo this July. Future promotional efforts are planned for Thailand and Singapore.

Chairman Hiroshi Ochi reflected, "It's almost miraculous to discover four distinct yeasts from one source. Each yeast imparts a unique character, making these sakes suitable for pairing with a wide range of dishes."

He also highlighted the benefits of collective marketing: "Joining forces to promote these sakes as signature offerings from Ehime significantly enhances their appeal. We are committed to broadening Sakura Hime's reach, both in Japan and internationally."

(Read the article in Japanese.)

Author: Koji Maekawa, The Sankei Shimbun