Paul de Vries 
(©Paul de Vries)
A major exhibition titled Treasures of Daikakuji: From Imperial Villa to Buddhist Temple is presently showing at the Tokyo National Museum until March 16. It is being held to commemorate the 1150th anniversary of the Daikakuji.
Located in the Saga area of Kyoto, near the popular Arashiyama bamboo grove, Daikakuji was constructed by Emperor Saga (786-842) as an imperial residence shortly after the capital moved to Kyoto. In 876, the Emperor's daughter, Princess Masako (809-879), successfully petitioned to have the complex converted into a Buddhist temple.
Prince Tsunesada, her son, was the first abbot. For many centuries thereafter, the abbacy was retained by members of the imperial family or court nobility. Temples with such aristocratic lineage are known as monzeki temples.
Daikakuji is the head temple of the Daikakuji branch of the Shingon school of Buddhism. A monk named Kukai (774-835) founded the Shingon school in Japan after returning from Tang Dynasty China (618-907). On the advice of Kukai, Emperor Saga established a Buddhist hall at his residence. That is where he enshrined the five sculptures known as the Five Great Wisdom Kings.
A Tradition of Veneration
During a prolonged epidemic, Emperor Saga produced a copy of the Heart Sutra in gold ink on dark blue silk twill as an act of prayer. This began a tradition. A further five emperors followed his example and produced copies of their own. Emperor Saga's initial copy of the sutra, as well as the Five Great Wisdom Kings, are the principal objects of veneration at the temple.
The temple's fortunes were closely aligned with the predominant events and trends taking place within Japan over successive centuries. Japan's eras of warfare led to uncertainty, destruction, and restoration. Politically astute abbots solidified the temple's status. Abdicated emperors who joined the Buddhist priesthood resided at the temple.
Temple Residences
Daikakuji includes two residences, the shinden and shoshiden, that date back to the 1500s. They collectively house 240 sliding doors that are rarely on show to the public.
Sliding doors are one of the more delightful components of artistic Japan. In addition to their practicality, they enable the artwork of more recent generations of artists to be incorporated into centuries-old architecture.
The panels are striking for their length and pleasing subject matter, including peonies and wild animals. On display are some delightful paintings of rabbits. According to temple lore, these were meant to comfort a child courtier who was born in the year of the rabbit and had become Daikakuji's Abbott at a young age.
Some of the door pulls feature the ginger crest of the Tokugawa family as well as chrysanthemums, the symbol of the imperial family. This is a clear indication of the connection and heritage of the Daikakuji facility. The detailing on the door pulls is exquisite.
The Crown Room
It was not uncommon for emperors to wield power after abdication. One of the features of the exhibition is a reproduction of the "Crown Room" from the shoshiden in which Emperor Go-Uda (1267-1324) continued to exercise political authority from behind the scenes. The sliding doors at the back of the room are reputed to have once housed the sacred sword and imperial seal from the three treasures that constitute Japan's imperial regalia.
The exhibition is notable for the scale of its exhibits, with statues and sliding doors that are striking both in beauty and size. There are ample English language posters.
Treasures of Daikakuji: From Imperial Villa to Buddhist Temple is an exhibition that would serve as an excellent introduction to temple culture for both residents of Japan and its visiting guests.
The Tokyo National Museum exhibition runs until March 16. For additional information, including access and a map, the exhibition website is helpful.
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Author: Paul de Vries
