Hidden Wonders | Yanaka Cemetery: A Quiet Historical Oasis in Tokyo

Hidden in the heart of Tokyo's old downtown lies Yanaka Cemetery, an unexpectedly serene and culturally rich oasis. This extensive graveyard (established in 1872) spreads across 10 hectares and holds around 7,000 tombs. The surrounding Yanaka neighborhood retains an old downtown atmosphere. Within the cemetery's grounds, visitors find themselves strolling under leafy canopies and springtime cherry blossoms.

In fact, Yanaka Cemetery is famous for its Cherry Blossom Street – a central pathway lined with cherry blossom trees that burst into bloom each April, blanketing the lanes in pink petals. It's a place where history rests quietly beneath the trees, and where one can sense Tokyo's past in a tranquil setting far removed from the high-rise bustle.

A Stroll Through History and Tranquility

Walking the stone paths of Yanaka Cemetery offers a peaceful journey through Japanese history. A nearby Buddhist temple, Tenno-ji, once used the grounds as its burial site. However, during the Meiji era, the government secularized the land and opened it as a public cemetery to enforce the separation of Buddhism and Shinto. This transition not only made Yanaka one of Tokyo's largest cemeteries at the time, it also gave it a park-like character – so much so that it was renamed from Yanaka Bochi ("graveyard") to Yanaka Reien ("spirit park") in 1935.

Scattered among the mossy gravestones are towering trees and even remnants of a five-story pagoda. The old pagoda, a gift from Tenno-ji Temple in 1908, burned down in a tragic 1957 incident. Today, only its stone foundation remains, quietly fenced off amid the greenery. Yet, even such ruins add to the atmosphere, a reminder of the layers of history present in this corner of the city.

On most days, the cemetery is remarkably quiet. You might wander its lanes without encountering another soul, aside from the caw of a crow or a few local elders tending family monuments. On Japan's spring and autumn equinox days, however, the grounds come alive with families cleaning and decorating ancestral graves as part of the ohigan tradition.

Surprising Sights Among the Tombs

A surprising discovery for many visitors is a children's playground nestled among the gravestones. Yes, Yanaka Cemetery even hosts a small play area with swings and slides, a sight that captures how seamlessly this space blends solemnity with the rhythms of everyday life.

*Playground in Yanaka Cemetery (©JAPAN Forward)*

Local families stroll through on the way home, neighbors pause under the trees, and as if to watch over the grounds, a small police koban (police box) even stands on the premises. The ambiance here is gentle rather than morbid – you might see more stray cats dozing on sun-warmed tombstones than people on a given afternoon.

The Last Shogun's Resting Place

Behind an ornate iron gate in one corner of Yanaka Cemetery lies a site of profound historical significance: the grave of Tokugawa Yoshinobu. Yoshinobu, the 15th and final shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, is interred here in a private Tokugawa family enclosure.

It's a grand yet secluded section, closed to the public except for a view through double bars. Peering in, one can see a simple moss-covered mound and memorial stone marking the resting place of the last shogun, who relinquished power in 1867 to make way for Japan's modernization.

Uniquely, Yoshinobu received a Shinto-style burial, a break from the Buddhist funerals of earlier shoguns. His tomb is a modest earthen mound, an almost humble tribute, especially in contrast to the ornate mausoleums of his ancestors.

*Tokugawa Yoshinobu's grave (©JAPAN Forward)*

A Hidden Gem for the Culturally Curious

Beyond Yoshinobu, Yanaka Cemetery is the final resting place of many notable figures – from scholars and artists to politicians and poets. Strolling here is like walking through a who's-who of Japan's modern history. You'll find, for example, the grave of Ichiro Hatoyama, a former prime minister, and that of Higuchi Ichiyo, a pioneering female novelist whose likeness adorns the ¥5,000 bill.

Each plot has its stories, and occasional signboards offer context in both Japanese and English, enriching the experience for history buffs. Yet, despite its cultural significance, Yanaka Cemetery remains a relatively hidden wonder. Few tourists venture here, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a quieter, more introspective side of Tokyo.

Visiting Yanaka Cemetery is easy and rewarding. The cemetery is a short 3-5 minute walk from JR Nippori Station in Taito Ward, and entry is free. There are maps at the entrances to help you navigate the lanes and locate famous graves.

As you wander, remember to be respectful. This is an active cemetery where locals still come to pay respects. The best times to visit are spring for the cherry blossoms and autumn for vibrant foliage, though the grounds are green and inviting year-round.

Author: Daniel Manning