Indonesia and Japan Collaborate in the Jember Fashion Carnaval

The common question, "Where are you from?" can start to become unwelcome when your answer inevitably leads to the rejoinder, "Oh really? Where is that?" Such has historically been the fate of the good people of Jember, a city of around two and a half million in East Java, Indonesia. Many in fact, find it easier to simply reply "near Surabaya," East Java's most significant city. 

Like most regional cities on the volcanic landmass of Java, Jember sits on fertile farming soil. It's the Asia of one's backpacking days — uneven payments and roadside food stalls. It is most famous for tobacco and the production of cigars. 

In the late 1990s, Dynand Fariz set out to change that. Fariz (1963-2019) a Jember native, acquired scholarships to study fashion and design in both Jakarta and France. Then, he decided to use his skills to create a promotional event for his native city. Jember Fashion Carnaval (JFC) was the result. 

During the first decade of the festival's existence from its initiation in 2002, it comprised a single parade. The twenty-second edition of the carnival was held from August 2-4 2024. It included five thematic carnivals over three days: The World Kids Carnival, the Pets Carnival, the Wonderful Archipelago Carnival Indonesia, the Artwear Carnival, and the Grand Carnival of Jember Fashion Carnaval. 

A 120 Meter Runway

Each carnival features costumes and performers on an expansive sound stage and "runway". The runway is a 120-meter stretch of street that borders the city's central park. 

At the conclusion of each thematic carnival, the performers parade through the main thoroughfare of Jember for up to an extraordinary 3.6 kilometers. The crowds are five or six deep, or in places, considerably more. It seems as if the whole city turns out. In terms of size and scale, JFC is second only to the Rio Carnival of Brazil. 

The principal fashion component occurs during the Artwear carnival. About 500 participants model the creations of contemporary designers, including international beauty pageant contestants. At the show's conclusion, the models all move onto the runway. There they are joined by the audience. 

Other than with the Artwear Carnival, the inclusion of the word "fashion" in "Jember Fashion Carnaval" is somewhat misleading. The costumes for which the carnival is best known have no application as wearable clothing. In size and complexity, they are beyond imagination. They can weigh as much as 20 kilograms and demand considerable space. Consequently, the logistical considerations of transport, storage, and assembly are little less than those of actual construction. 

Japanese Star Power

The twenty-second edition of JFC, in 2024, will be remembered as one of the most significant. In addition to the remarkable costuming, it received a boost of serious star power from Japan. 

The Japanese contingent included the reigning Japanese D-league (Dance League) champions, the Kadokawa Dreams dance group. They appeared courtesy of Kadokawa Corporation. Singers included Aoi, Namua Morimoto, and idol group Houkago Princess. Also, a Surabaya-based Indonesian Yosokoi team appeared with the support of the Japanese consulate located in that city. 

The impact of the Japanese artists also went beyond their actual performances. The costumes created for the festival are indeed stunning. However, the eye can only take in so much. After the first 100 or so costumes, the impact tends to diminish. Therefore, the insertion of the Japanese performers into the program provided a refreshing variety that enhanced the perception of the costumes that followed.  

Add a Fireworks Festival

The evening of August 3 featured the first-ever performance of Japanese hanabi (fireworks) in Indonesia. In this case, the hanabi were a collaboration between the Wakino Art Factory of Fukuoka and Nolimits Fireworks from Indonesia. In addition, they were coordinated to a musical accompaniment by Yanagiman, a renowned Japanese musician, composer, songwriter, arranger, and record producer. 

Thereafter, hanabi were set off from adjacent rooftops, in close proximity to the audience. It was very much a new experience for the Indonesian crowd, and many were so overwhelmed as to be moved to tears. Masahiro Wakino, president of Wakino Art Factory, assures that 2024 was simply a warm-up. Next year in 2025, it goes to a whole new level.

Sakura and Her Cross-cultural Society

The driving force behind this Japanese influx is Sakura Ijuin, a Japanese national. Ijuin began working for an NPO in 2011 that engaged in cultural exchange between Japanese and Indonesian children, primarily within Bali. 

In 2018 she accepted the offer to become a JFC ambassador. She resolved to become involved with the World Kids Carnival. In addition, she hoped to introduce some Japanese participation throughout the totality of the five carnivals. When the NPO for which she was working ceased operations, she began the Sakuranesia Society. She is supporting JFC under that banner. 

In 2023, the first carnival after the pandemic, around 30 Japanese performers and spectators attended. In 2024, it was an extraordinary 136 — way beyond what the carnival leaders expected. "We couldn't believe it" stated Aristorama Chayo Putro (Arist) Creative Director of the carnival. "Every few weeks there was more good news."

In addition to the performers, Ijuin has brought down an array of Japanese sponsors. They include cosmetic maker Othello, Capitten, a new football shoe brand fronted by Spanish soccer world cup star and former Vissel Kobe J-League player Andres Iniesta, and PABLO BRAQUE, an emerging online food and lifestyle supplier. 

Several of the performers appear as "cultural ambassadors" of the sponsors. The idol group, Finally, appears for Capitten and comedian Durians Hirai for PABLO BRAQUE. Idol Hazuki Hokazono, a former sub-leader of HKT48, attends for Sakuranesia Society. 

Rock Solid Foundations 

The carnival has very much maintained its grassroots origins. There are a mere eight full-time staff, and the rest are volunteers. Participants commit to a training program in makeup, modeling, expression, and runway. They fund their own costumes. "It takes around 100 hours for a seasoned veteran to put together a costume," states Kalifa Diyantama (Tama), Event Director. "For a novice, it takes considerably longer". 

Costume construction often becomes a family or even village-wide project with associated social benefits, comments Budi Setiawan (Iwan), JFC president. He often receives comments about how the time spent creating costumes has healed relationships and brought families, neighborhoods and communities closer together. 

Every costume is new. Furthermore, there is no cavernous warehouse full of stock from previous years. Certain costume themes reappear from year to year, but performers are strictly forbidden to buy or borrow from past participants. "That would seriously undercut the personal developmental aims of the carnival," states Iwan.

A Cross-cultural Showcase of Indonesia and Japan

The Jember Fashion Carnival is an excellent example of successful regional self-branding. Indeed, Jember has become known as a "carnival city." The carnival is also on the way to becoming a cross-cultural success story between Indonesia and Japan. At present, the cultural exchange is primarily in the direction of Japan to Indonesia. Nevertheless, efforts are being made to bring Indonesian nationals into the Japanese performances. 

On the final day, for example, Kadokawa Dreams accompanied popular Indonesian singer Raisa. Their lineup included three Indonesian guest dancers. According to Gen Koma, Creative Director of Kadokawa Dreams, the dance team is also looking to recruit international members from Asian nations, starting with Indonesia.

The organizers are most certainly grateful for the Japanese involvement, as are the local political elite. Bubah Alfian, a JFC art director and celebrity makeup artist with 1.1 million Instagram followers. At a formal city hall reception, he characterized Sakura Ijuin as a tribute to Indonesia, not just the city of Jember. This was effusive but not outrageous praise. 

The carnival has been flagged by the national government as a soft power opportunity. Moreover, its designers have become the preferred destination for Indonesia's international beauty pageant participants when sourcing their cultural outfits. Several participated in the carnival itself, including Harashta Haifa Zahra, recent winner of the Miss Supranational competition.

An International future

When asked by JAPAN Forward about their hopes and plans for 2025 and beyond, both Ijuin and JFC president Iwan first mentioned honor to the legacy of founder Dynand Fariz. His tragic death from the preventable disease of tuberculosis at age 55 most certainly galvanized all who had known him to see his mission through. Thereafter, Ijuin spoke of aiming for eight Japanese performance acts and 500 total performers and guests from Japan. That is a significant increase from the 136 of 2024. 

To this, Iwan could only smile. "In truth, it's difficult to believe" he confessed. "But Sakura always seems to make it happen." He then spoke of the challenges with which opportunities are inevitably paired. "We feel very comfortable with the costuming and our community-based programs. Our challenge is internationalizing without losing our community focus. But everyone knows about the Rio carnival", he concluded, "eventually, I'm sure, they will all know about us". 

"Or maybe they already do", interjects Suyanto, JFC CEO and the oldest brother of founder Dynand Fariz. "They just don't realize it." Photos of JFC sourced from international news agencies "have surpassed those of Rio" he announced. "We just need to make people realize what they are looking at." 

There will surely be a great deal more to see in the coming years from the Jember Fashion Carnaval, both literally and in terms of enhanced relations between Japan and its Indonesian neighbor. 

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Author: Paul de Vries
Find other reviews and articles by the author on Asia Pacific history on JAPAN Forward.