Japan Can Bring its Own Spin to the Luxury Sector, Says Expert

Japan is known for its highly refined craftsmanship. Beyond craft, this country also offers a distinctive approach to luxury, blending tradition, sustainability, and new ideas. We wanted to know what is at the intersection of luxury and sustainability when it comes to "Made in Japan."

Reaching out to someone in the field, JAPAN Forward spoke with Kanako Date, an expert on luxury goods. We first met her as the founder and executive producer of GEM Talks, an English speech contest for high-school students in Japan. She is also the Miss World 2018 Talent winner. 

Date recently came back from France. Focusing on luxury and sustainability, she completed a double degree with Waseda Business School MBA program in collaboration with the prestigious ESCP Business School in Paris. She spoke about the world of luxury, how it fits with sustainability and the contributions that Japan can bring to the sector. 

Excerpts of the interview follow. 

Linking Luxury and Sustainability

How do you define luxury?

The original definition of luxury is rooted in the European concept of privilege by birth. In Europe, luxury is seen as proof of one's inherited status, a testament of heritage. Luxury goods are chosen and worn because they embody a dignity that aligns with one's perception of this status or lineage. 

On the other hand, the United States market established its own interpretation with capitalistic connotations. Upon achieving financial success and accumulation of wealth, luxury goods serve as a means to demonstrate this acquired status. 

Arguably, the Japanese luxury goods market has largely adopted the American interpretation. 

How do you think sustainability fits into all this? 

Just like with the concept of luxury, Europe and the United States have differing perspectives of economic success. In Europe, there was a wish to move away from prioritizing gross domestic product to measure prosperity. In its place, Europe was key in introducing new indicators, including the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Now, sustainability has become a standard in Europe, both in terms of sensibility and legislation. It's become an understood requirement. 

What sustainability lessons can Japan take from Europe?

First, I think it's worth following [the connection between] sustainability and legal standards more closely, like in Europe. 

At the same time, there is a great opportunity for Japan to showcase its own sense of sustainability and luxury as we bring a unique perspective to the table. 

Lessons in Sustainable Craftsmanship

Could you give some examples?

In Europe, if a glass breaks, people might think of how to best dispose of it or how to prevent breaking it in the first place. But in Japan, there is an understanding that objects will eventually break. If they are special objects, they are worth repairing. 

This philosophy is embodied in kintsugi, the idea of repairing broken objects with gold. Objects such as ceramics or porcelain are derived from nature, and the kami [gods] live within them. To pay our respects, we make them beautiful once more. 

From the European perspective, this is quite an unusual idea. But in Japan, the gold adds value, creating something that almost comes alive. Therefore, I think that Japan has its own unique way of seeing things, with luxury and also sustainability, which makes it very unique. 

A similar thing can be said for bonsai. Originally, they were something for Chinese royalty. Yet, when the craft came to Japan, the integration of a unique Japanese aesthetic — often referred to as wabi-sabi — together with the systemization of techniques infused the art with new depth and meaning. 

The Japanese artform also accepts the passage of time and allows beauty to reside in the process of aging. This is arguably a key concept in the Japanese interpretation of sustainability. 

How do these translate internationally?

Japan would benefit from appreciating these perspectives of its own uniqueness. Japanese brands, for example, should consider how these ideas translate internationally.

In France, there is a lot of value put on inherited history, and shops would write "Depuis 1700" (Since 1700). Everyone can understand that. But in Japan, they might say "since the Meiji Era." For non-Japanese consumers, this reference might be unclear. There is a part of Japan that is isolated from the rest of the world. 

Looking at Trends

What were some of the cultural trends that you noticed while in Europe, compared to Japan? 

There were things I noticed every day. For example, when I went to a sports attire store, all the mannequins displayed in the window were of different body shapes and sizes. I would like to see more diversity like that in Japanese ads. 

In general trends, I would like to see more appeal to younger generations and more freedom to mix and match. It would invite Japan to further embrace self-expression beyond the boundaries of binary frameworks and unisex fashion altogether. If a woman wears a man's item, she is cool. If a man wears a woman's item, he is cool.

Japan is often seen as a country that values conformity. But we also have the word "katayaburi", meaning "breaking the mold." It would be wonderful to come up with more innovative ideas on this theme as well. 

What do you think will be the future of luxury and sustainability? 

I believe that sustainability will increasingly become a baseline expectation. Therefore, the question is how we can all meet the needs of society in the best way possible. 

The keyphrase is "circular economy," therefore looking at how companies can improve processes, from the raw materials to the end consumer. 

In Japan, there is still this idea that SDGs are a cost for companies. [Instead], businesses need to shift their mindset, seeing sustainable practices as preventing greater costs in the long run. 

In Europe, sustainability can be a mechanism that contributes to less waste and higher profit margins. With government support and a ready market, there are success stories. 

For example, when buying presents before coming home, I came across this company founded by an ESCP alumnus, Alexandre Chandellier. Called Cinabre, it is a luxury shop that supplies ties to France's President, Emmanuel Macron. And the materials are all sustainably sourced. 

What are some ideas that the Japanese need to be more aware of when looking at the European market? 

One key difference is the European perception of "blank space" or "void," or "余白" (yohaku) in Japanese. This concept plays a crucial role in shaping how individuals assign meaning to their time.

For Europeans, time, especially holiday time, is important because it reinforces the sense of being part of a historical continuum, their connection with the past. Japan, in contrast, is a country of natural disasters. Time is perceived through impermanence, transience, and reverence for nature. 

For Japanese companies catering to the European markets, it can be extremely beneficial to understand these differences in the concept of yohaku.

An Academic Perspective

While studying for your joint degree, what was your research about?  

I was very interested in looking at long-standing Japanese businesses that were seen as interesting by foreign companies. Especially those that were successful abroad through collaborations. They include Nishijin textiles, Kaga-nui embroidery, and Kyoto lacquer, which are historically renowned traditional crafts of exceptionally high artistic value.

What I noticed among these Japanese companies is their constant will to evolve. They advance both tradition and evolution in harmony, where innovation serves as a tool to elevate tradition to a higher level that captivates international luxury brands. 

In addition, another common element that I find among these successful Japanese businesses is their constant will to go beyond what is expected of them, even that single inch closer to perfection. Therefore, I think Japanese craftsmanship is about the ultimate "order-made" experience. 

Can you share an example?

Take the tea ceremony. The host customizes the experience, thinking of the preferences of the guest, what scroll to hang, the choice of flower decoration, and which seasonal sweet to serve. In the European setting, this is a rare experience. One doesn't hear of furniture or lamps being moved around to please a guest, except for very particular cases. This order-made culture is something that the Japanese should be proud of. 

What about the 'Scale' of Luxury in Japan?

Another aspect that has contributed greatly to the success of Japanese businesses is compacting value in something small. 

Traditionally, Japan was a country of travelers where something had to be small enough to carry with you. 

Large businesses like Sony or electronics makers have really benefited from that concept. By making things small, they are getting rid of irrelevant details and distilling an item to its essence. This is also something that is very valuable from the point of view of sustainability: to not use more than is strictly necessary. 

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Author: Arielle Busetto