Kimono Style | Hakata Weaving: How Hirokazu Okano is Preserving the Special Craft

The oldest examples of silk weaving in Japan have been found in the north of Kyushu island. Silk weaving culture originated in China, and it is known that Mitsuta Yazaemon left northern Kyushu in 1235 and brought the art of weaving back to the people of Hakata in 1241.

Since then it has been handed down through the generations and there is a special technique of obi weaving that is typical of this area. The weaving is unique and was used as a kind of tax payment to the ruling Tokugawa shogunate in the Edo period (1603–1868).

*Rolls of woven Hakata silk fabric. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

Patterns and Symbolism

The traditionally patterned obi was called goshiki kenjo (five-coloured tax) and both the five colors and the pattern are steeped in meaning. The five colors used represent the five elements in Chinese cosmology: earth, fire, wood, gold, and water. They also represent five virtues: kindness, justice, politeness, wisdom, and fidelity. Thus they embody the whole universe. The colors are yellow, green, dark blue, red, and purple.

The patterns in the obi are two groups of stripes and two sets of patterns, and the patterns are all in the warp threads. These patterns come from Buddhist thinking. Thicker stripes with thin stripes between them represent parents caring for their children. A thicker stripe in the center surrounded by thinner stripes means children protecting and caring for their aged parents.

The other two designs, which appear as geometrics represent two items used in Buddhist ceremonies. The thicker pattern represents the tokko, a golden amulet, and the smaller design represents the hanazara, a golden dish that holds flowers for ceremonies. The whole design is thought to be auspicious, purifying, and prosperous.

*A loom in Okano's workshop (left) and patterned fabrics.*

Hakata Weaving

Hakata fabric is very dense and uses a lot of silk. Softer fabrics have 3000–4000 warp threads, but Hakata weaving has 7000–10,000 warp threads. The weft threads are sometimes grouped together when weaving, making the cloth very thick and dense. It can be used as a single layer or can have a lining fabric put on it.

Although the fabric can be woven on hand looms it is more often woven on electrically powered looms today. This is still intensive hard work though, and the weavers must listen to the noise of the looms carefully to hear any change in sound that would indicate a broken thread or other problem. Adjustments to the looms are also made according to the temperature and humidity, so the climate and weather are very important.

Preserving the Craft

Hirokazu Okano is the fifth generation in a line of weavers. His company was started in 1897 and is the second oldest company in business. Now there are seven businesses remaining, but in the mid-20th century, there were around 150. Okano not only has a weaving workshop but two retail outlets as well.

*Hirokazu Okano at one of his workshops. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

One shop is in Hakata and the other one is in Roppongi Ark Hills. A total of 35 people work in the factory as designers, preparing the threads and weaving with the looms. Around 90% of production is obi, almost 10% is kimono and they also make a few neckties.

Training the Next Generation

There used to be more workers, but many of them were elderly. When the pandemic hit, it seemed like the right time to let them go. Okano misses them for their work speed and skills that come from years and years of experience, but he is excited about training young workers who can continue the weaving into the future. Young people who are interested in craftwork or who love kimono come to work for his company.

Fashion is always changing and while he continues to make kenjo obi, the design team also works on new and interesting designs that are more modern. There is a large archive of fabric samples collected over the generations and also historical design books and books of woven designs from other countries. These include samples of Saga Nishiki weaving, a high-end obi weaving technique developed by Okano's grandfather. The samples are a precious resource for the designers and are also an important historical record.

*A variety of patterned fabrics and vibrant threads. (©Sheila Cliffe)*

A Loyal Fanbase

Of course, selling obi depends on people wearing kimono. That is why having retail outlets is very important. Often people buy a kimono and obi together, and the shops sell not only works by Okano's company, but also those of other weavers, kimono makers, and accessory makers.

By stocking an interesting selection of kimono, obi, and related goods, he has developed a customer base of people who love kimono. They come regularly to see what is available.

Okano also hosts events at his shops. Recently, I introduced my new kimono book at events in both Roppongi and Hakata. He used the event to introduce the work of Create Ebara kimono and silk brand from Tango. Ebara's kimono bolts are not usually available in Kyushu, so it was a special chance for customers to see them and hear about how they are made.

Awards and Recognition

Okano travels between Kyushu, Tokyo, and Kyoto (also a large market) and is always busy thinking about the next steps to ensure the future of this special Hakata craft. He made an obi for the imperial household in 1992 and has made commissions for various temples in Japan. He has received the Prime Minister's award for his work. In 2019, he was commissioned to make neckties for the members of G20 who visited Japan.

Hakata was hit by rain when I was there, but it didn't stop the event from being completely filled with customers. Outside, the crowds were gathering for the beginning of Yamagasa, the local summer festival. Large crowds of men in cotton happi were wandering through the streets, and they almost all sported kenjo hakata obi. They are worn with pride in this area, and throughout Japan.

Author: Sheila Cliffe

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