Chef Yoo Youngguk (©JAPAN Forward by Kenji Yoshida)
In the backstreets of Okubo, Tokyo, the aroma of simmering stock drifts from an unassuming storefront. Inside, diners savor a dish that looks deceptively simple at first: a clear broth with tender slices of pork, served with white rice.
Yet this modest Korean traditional food, gomtang or beef bone soup, has become the centerpiece of one of the most intriguing stories in contemporary dining.
Okdongsik, at the heart of it all, has built a reputation that reaches far beyond its main branch in Seoul. Since 2018, the restaurant has been featured in the Michelin Guide for eight consecutive years, a rare distinction for a venue devoted to such a modest dish.
In recent years, the brand has expanded from Hawaii to New York. Okdongsik opened its latest location in Tokyo in August, selecting the multicultural enclave of Okubo as its new home.
A Neighborhood with Energy
The choice of Okubo was no accident. Known for its vibrant Korean presence and its eclectic mix of international residents, it offered a setting that feels both foreign and familiar.
Yoo Youngguk, the young chef running Okdongsik Tokyo, explains that he was drawn to its energy.
"The original location in Seoul wasn't on a grand avenue, either. Okdongsik Tokyo, too, is slightly tucked away from the center, but alive with movement and character," Yoo said. "It suited us perfectly. I wanted a space where the food itself, not flashy signs, draws people in."
Just as the restaurant refuses to dress up its broth with unnecessary flourishes, it also resists the lure of a bustling neighborhood. The allure is meant to come from the bowl itself, the chef emphasized.
The Art of Simplicity
For outsiders, gomtang might appear almost too austere. Its clarity contrasts with the spicy, fermented flavors that many associate with Korean cuisine.
Yet to the chef, its very restraint is what embodies sophistication. "Honest ingredients, precise technique, and a clean, untainted broth — that is the challenge," he explained.
Achieving that, however, requires rigor. From sourcing top-quality Japanese pork shoulder, simmering the stock at precisely controlled temperatures until its flavor deepens without clouding, and setting it alongside a crisp, house-made Korean radish pickle
Sophistication here is measured not by exotic garnishes or dazzling plating but by balance. The savory depth against a subtle saltiness, the warmth of fat tempered by the clean finish of the soup.
Tradition, with Flexibility
While its core remains non-negotiable, Okdongsik is not bound by dogma. Beyond the authentic taste and the traditional technique of toeyom — pouring hot broth over rice so the two warm and meld together — the chef notes that everything else shifts with place.
In New York, diners received a more straightforward, boldly seasoned stock. Meanwhile, in Hawaii, a lighter and more refreshing soup that suits the climate.
"Everywhere we go, it remains Korean gomtang," Yoo said. "But what we adjust is the accent, the nuance. What matters is that people feel the warmth and care that Koreans put into cooking."
That warmth is as much about philosophy as taste. In his view, the essence of Korean food lies in sincerity, or jeongsong, the deeply cultural idea of affection and communal care.
The Weight of Recognition
For eight consecutive years, Okdongsik has earned a place in Michelin's Bib Gourmand, lifting the restaurant beyond its humble beginnings.
For the chef, the honor was less about prestige than validation. "It showed me that even the humblest dishes could be celebrated on a global stage," he said. At the same time, it brought a sense of responsibility. "We cannot remain just a neighborhood eatery — we must carry Korean cuisine proudly wherever we go."
That responsibility fuels his ambition. Beyond gomtang, Yoo hopes to expand into other traditional Korean dishes, reintroducing them to global audiences with the same integrity.
And the Tokyo opening is just one step, with another branch expected in Akasaka. In November, a Paris location is set to debut, extending Okdongsik's reach into Europe.
A Space of Trust
Meanwhile, the Tokyo branch sets itself apart not only with its menu but also with its design. Dai Miura, head of Hajime Kenso and the designer behind the remodeling, explained the vision in plain terms.
"We wanted a space where the food takes center stage," he said. "The bowl, the broth, the conversation between diners — that's the heart of the experience. Everything else should exist only to support it."
The result is minimalist yet warm. Korean-style materials form the palette, while Japanese sensibilities shape the spatial rhythm. The dining room is spare, but not sterile. Intimate, but not crowded. "We wanted customers to enter and feel not spectacle but reassurance," Miura added.
Even the kitchen was conceived with a similar philosophy in mind.
In an era when global dining often gravitates toward spectacle and novelty, Okdongsik is making a quieter statement. Humility, when coupled with mastery, resonates across borders.
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Author: Kenji Yoshida
