November weather in the Kanto (Tokyo) region has been warmer than usual in 2024. Mount Fuji did not get its first snow cover until November 7, the latest since record keeping began in 1894. The warm weather has similarly delayed the appearance of autumn colors. Ginkgo trees have just started to turn yellow and only a few maples have started to turn red.
While there are parks and gardens within the 23 wards of Tokyo that are known for their autumn colors, viewing them in a mountain setting is a much more exhilarating experience.
On the November 19, my wife and I visited Mount Tsukuba, a noted site to the east of Tokyo that is a counterpoise to Mount Takao, Mount Mitake, and the Okutama region to the West of Tokyo.
Because the twin peaks of Mount Tsukuba jut into a farming area with Tokyo in the distance, they offer an aerial view of the Kanto plain comparable to flying over the area in a light plane.
Getting There
We used a discount ticket that covers round trip travel on the Tsukuba Express Line. The ticket also provides unlimited access to both the cable car and ropeway stations for ascending and descending the mountain. From Akihabara, the ticket is ¥4,380 JPY (about $28 USD) for adults and ¥4,110 JPY ($27 USD) from Kita-Senju where we joined the train.
There is also bus service from Tokyo Station to Tsukuba Center. This might be more interesting than the Tsukuba Express with its long underground sections.
Going by car is not advisable on weekends or other peak days because of road congestion.
Getting About
Wheelchair access is quite limited. The path connecting the two peaks is difficult even for able bodied people equipped for mountain walking. We gave up midway through the nature observation trail because of a series of extremely steep and difficult inclines.
Souvenirs and Food
Shops at the summit stations of the ropeway and cable car offer a variety of confections using the sweet potatoes, a noted product of Ibaraki. I recommend thin sliced dried sweet potatoes. Pricey but very tasty.
Restaurants at the summits offer fast food typical of tourist sites, meals using farm produce associated with Ibaraki, and in the case of hotels on and around the mountain, elaborate meals associated with Japanese ryokan (traditional inns).
In the Area
The right of way of the railroad that once served Mount Tsukuba (abandoned in 1987) has been converted into a cycling course. We did it as a family outing and thoroughly enjoyed it, but it cannot be combined with an ascent of the mountain without an overnight stay.
Conclusion
We found the trip to Mount Tsukuba pleasant, even though there were only scattered trees that had changed to fall colors and not the red and yellow mountain sides to be seen in videos from previous years. We are considering a repeat trip when ume (Japanese apricot), katakuri (dogtooth violet), or other flowers and trees are in bloom.
Anyone going just for the fall colors should, however, check the web sites that report on the current weather and viewing conditions. They could also use the various live cameras to decide whether a visit to the mountains is worth the effort.
RELATED:
- Enjoy Autumn Without the Crowds at Tokyo's Shakujii Park
- Fall Foliage Forecast 2024 is Out: Where and When to See Japan's Autumn Colors
- When Fall Colors Are Most Beautiful Along the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route
Author: Earl H Kinmonth
Photographs by EH Kinmonth.
Find other stories about Tokyo and nearby areas by Dr Kinmonth.
