
Women picking fresh tea leaves in Uji City, Kyoto. (©Sankei by Yasuaki Watanabe)
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There are various ways to enjoy matcha. Thick matcha, carefully whisked to a glossy finish, offers a rich, smooth taste. Thin matcha, which can vary by tea school, has a light foam on its surface and a refreshing aftertaste.
While the practice of drinking powdered tea originated in China, it faded there and evolved in Japan, where it became a central element of tea ceremony culture.
However, Japan has been experiencing a shortage of matcha. What could be the cause?
Recently, I visited a friend in Uji, Kyoto, where the main street was lined with tea shops. While matcha-flavored soft-serve ice cream and sweets have long been tourist favorites, now matcha itself is gaining significant popularity.
Inside the shops, many inbound visitors crowded the registers, purchasing small cans and boxes. Prices ranged from around ¥1,000 JPY (about $7 USD) for a box containing just a few dozen grams to more than ¥10,000 for premium varieties.
Rising Demand
When I asked customers about their purchases, health benefits and taste were common reasons. One visitor wanted to buy a bamboo whisk to take home, signaling the rise of a new trend.
Some shops have even placed purchase limits. When I checked online, some brands were already sold out. It seems matcha can't be produced in large quantities on demand.
The tea industry defines matcha as powdered tencha, tea leaves shaded to block sunlight for a specific period, steamed, dried, and ground with a stone mill. This meticulous process reduces bitterness and enhances the umami, making it a premium product.
The export value of matcha has surged, reaching a record ¥36.4 billion (about $244 million) in 2024. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries recently announced plans to shift focus from sencha (tea leaves for infusing), which is made in large quantities, to tencha (tea leaves for making powdered tea) production.
With its high value and diverse uses, matcha has become an important agricultural product. It's essential to maintain its quality while scaling production to sustain this growing trend.

Health Benefits
ITO EN, a leading beverage company, recently held a forum where it announced research on matcha's cognitive benefits. In collaboration with MCBI, a biotech venture from the University of Tsukuba, the results were published in the summer of 2024 in the American journal PLOS One.
This study focused on individuals with mild cognitive impairment (MCI). It showed that consuming 2 grams of matcha daily (about one cup of thin tea) for a year led to improvements in facial recognition and sleep quality.
Many of tea's health benefits are already well-known. Theanine promotes relaxation and catechins help reduce cholesterol and body fat. What was particularly interesting about this study was the improvement in sleep quality despite matcha's caffeine content, which is often thought to disrupt sleep. The full effects of tea remain an area of ongoing study.
History of Tea in Japan
There are various ways to drink tea, such as brewing or steeping it in hot water. Tea has been imported to Japan since the Nara (710–794) and Heian (794–1185) periods, and over time, its preparation and form have evolved.
Tea cultivation in Japan is believed to have begun during the Kamakura period when the monk Eisai introduced it, initially for medicinal purposes.
A well-known story tells how Minamoto no Sanetomo, the third shogun of the Kamakura shogunate, drank tea offered by Eisai to cure a hangover. The tea at that time was similar to powdered matcha.
Symbolism of Tea
Interestingly, while the tradition of drinking powdered tea faded in China, it remained in Japan and developed into a unique cultural practice. Eisai's book, Kissa Yojoki (Drinking Tea for Health), begins with the line, "Tea is the elixir of health."
One key aspect of drinking thick matcha at Japanese tea ceremonies is the practice of "shared drinking," where multiple people drink from the same bowl. This custom, which had become less common in recent years, is now beginning to make a comeback.
In the tea ceremony, there is a tradition of sprinkling water on the ground, burning incense, and purifying hands and mouth at the tsukubai washbasin before entering the tea room. Each step serves to purify both the space and the mind.
While matcha abroad may be seen as just another flavor, in Japan, it is revered for its unique qualities. Cherished for both its flavor and its rich history, tea is more than a trend — an elixir for the soul.
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Author: Naoko Yamagami, The Sankei Shimbun
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