View of Mt Ontake from Hida Kaido, an offshoot of the Nakasendo trail. (©Daniel Moore)
The Nakasendo is an ancient road that connected the symbolic Imperial Capital of Kyoto with the Shogunate's political base of Edo. The Tokugawa Shogunate required Daimyo Lords to travel from their home provinces to Edo along the major highways, requiring the samurai to spend lavishly and reduce the chances of rebellion.
Places like Kiso Fukushima-juku (post town) served as checkpoints along the Nakasendo, where officials inspected for guns entering Edo and women, often used as hostages, leaving.
A Trip Through Time
History surrounds you when walking the Nakasendo. The Kiso Valley section especially offers a look into picturesque Japanese countryside villages straight from history books. Visitors can enjoy quaint hot spring inns run by charming owners and stunning vistas of the narrow valley, roaring river, and towering Kiso mountain range.
The Nakasendo provides easy train access, numerous restaurant options, and varied trails for all walking ability levels. It is no exaggeration to say the Nakasendo is perhaps Japan's most desirable long trail.
For those same reasons, though, the main sections of the Nakasendo during peak walking months of spring and autumn become overcrowded, expensive, and challenging to find accommodations. Walking a historic trail to rewind with a thousand other people feels like a wasted opportunity.
However, there is good news. There are offshoots of the Nakasendo that open up diverse options for hiking, sightseeing, cultural activities, and experiences away from the crowds.
In addition, the Hida Kaido and Ontake Kodo sections introduced here contain some higher elevation walks than the Nakasendo. It offers a slightly cooler hiking alternative during Japan's sweltering summer months.
The Hida Kaido
The Hida Kaido is also known as the Buri (Yellowtail) Kaido because merchants transported fish from the Sea of Japan through Hida Takayama to modern-day Nagano Prefecture.
Yellowtails caught in November and December were particularly prized for flavor and considered a celebratory fish to indulge in during New Year festivities. In its heyday, the Hida Kaido was bustling with commerce.
Unfortunately, because of disuse, few Hida Kaido sections remain intact. However, the available sections offer the chance to escape deep into the Japanese mountains.
The Ontake Kodo
The Ontake Kodo was developed for an altogether different purpose. For centuries, believers worshipped Mount Ontake as a sacred site in Japan's native religion Shugendo.
Practitioners spent 100 days in the mountains fasting, praying, and meditating under waterfalls to attain enlightenment before climbing. Later, the requirements were relaxed so that more followers of Ontake-Kyo (the Ontake Faith) could make the journey.
The network of trails used to make this pilgrimage to Mt Ontake is known collectively as the Ontake Kodo. Although few sections remain, one can feel the spiritual presence of the place through the shrines, waterfalls, and Reijinhi dotted along the trail. Reijinhi were stone monuments erected by pilgrims, etched with their names and the number of times they summited Mt Ontake. The monuments ensured their spirits would return to the mountain after death.
To have the whole pilgrim experience, I recommend hiring a Shugendo guide for a hike and waterfall meditation, especially in the summer when the water is slightly less frigid.
Recommended Walks on the Hida Kaido
Jizo Toge Section
Taking a 20-minute taxi ride from Kiso Fukushima station, one arrives at Karasawa no Taki waterfall in the middle of the forest. Elongated and elegant, with a constant cool breeze blowing, Karasawa no Taki is an unexpected find after the seemingly endless forest road.
The trail climbs to the foot of the waterfall before turning steeply into mountain switchbacks covered in leaves. The arduous climb is not long-lived, though, as the trail reunites with the more gentle slope of the paved road. The rest of the way alternates between paved roads and trails. All roads lead to the welcoming Jizo Buddha statue at the top, Jizo Toge's namesake.
Descending back into the forest, it's a relaxing trail to Kaida Kogen. Look for Kiso Uma no Sato, a conservation area for the Kiso breed of horse that almost went extinct during World War II. After that, visit Kirishina Soba for lunch, the Kaida Kogen Ice Cream Workshop for dessert, and Kazari if staying in the area. To continue onto Nishino Toge for another walk or return to Kiso Fukushima, visit the Kaida Kogen Tourist Information Office bus stop.
Nishino Toge Section
Nishino Toge is a more remote section of the Hida Kaido that offers a singular view of Mt Ontake on a clear day. From the Kaida Shisho bus stop, follow signs for Nishino Toge. After meandering around the photogenic Japanese countryside, the trail enters the forest and becomes much steeper. There is hope, though. The trail is shorter than Jizo Toge.
At the top, visit the Shiroyama Observatory, which has the best view of Mt Ontake anywhere in Kaida Kogen. When descending, follow signs for Nishino Village and catch the bus at the Yamaka Ryokan bus stop. Buses are infrequent, though, so check the schedule before hiking. If you have extra time, visit the Yamashita historic house to see how wealthy villagers lived. For avid walkers, Jizo Toge and Nishino Toge are great to combine for a full day of walking.
Hiwada Section
The Hiwada Trail is a recently opened section of the Hida Kaido that offers a long walk over three remote passes. To access this trail, take a taxi from Kiso Fukushima Station (one hour) to Ichiinomori Hachiman Shrine. The trail is around 10 kilometers, providing views of the wide-open Kaida Plateau and tiny mountainside hamlets.
Bring lunch and water — there are no restaurants, convenience stores, or vending machines. Returning to the Yamaka Ryokan bus stop, return by bus to Kiso Fukushima Station or elsewhere in Kaida Kogen. Because the Hiwada section is more remote than others, I recommend finding a local guide to stay safe and enjoy hiking in the mountains.
Recommended Walks on the Ontake Kodo
Gongen Waterfall and Joyama Castle
Head for the Gyonimbashi bridge spanning the Kiso River, starting at Kiso Fukushima Station. This bride is where pilgrims began their ascent of Mt Ontake. After crossing the bridge and turning right, find a grave and cluster of Buddha statues that signify the trailhead. Follow signs for Gongen Waterfall used for Takigyo meditations, a trail highlight.
Continue walking, following signs for Joyama Castle. More of a fortress than a castle, Joyama was the location where the local samurai would make their last stand in case Kiso Fukushima was ever sieged.
Nowadays, no buildings remain, so one must imagine the fortress in the mountains. From Joyama Castle, there are multiple loops for different lengths of walks. You can return to Gongen Waterfalls or return on an alternate route to Kiso Fukushima.
Kiyotaki Waterfall
Take a taxi 30 minutes from Kiso Fukushima Station to the Otaki Village Tourist Information Center or Satomiya Shrine. The shrine, where pilgrims would pray before making their ascent of Mt Ontake, is the trailhead. The trail begins with hundreds of steps going straight up the mountain but mellows as it turns into the forest and meanders around the mountainside.
Follow signs for Shintaki Falls and Kiyotaki Falls, where pilgrims would meditate under the pounding waterfalls. You can hike to Hakkaisan Shrine (9 km) or walk back along the road to Satomiya Shrine after Kiyotaki Falls. To get the full experience, we highly recommend booking a local guide for this section. Companies such as Heartland Japan, Really Rural Japan, or the Ohtaki Village offer guided experiences.
Where to Stay
Having a base in Kiso Fukushima or Kaida Kogen is the ideal way to explore the Hida Kaido and Ontake Kodo. Kiso Fukushima has excellent train access and plenty of restaurant options. I like to stay in the same hot spring resort every day to relax after a long walk and avoid packing daily.
With nothing to think about except the day's walk and what to eat for dinner, you can truly soak in Japan's mountain culture and experience a place that few tourists ever visit.
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Author: Daniel Moore
Learn more about the wild side of Japan through Daniel's essays.
