Dogo Onsen: 'Spirited Away' Bathhouse Fully Reopens After Repairs

The Dogo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama City fully reopened on July 11 after a five-and-a-half-year partial closure. Designated as a National Important Cultural Property, the bathhouse is one of Japan's oldest onsen facilities.

This historic site is renowned for inspiring the bathhouse in the Ghibli film Spirited Away (2001). Notably, it was frequented by literary figures such as novelist Natsume Soseki and poet Masaoka Shiki. Dogo Onsen is also mentioned in classical texts such as the Manyoshu and the Nihon Shoki.

Since January 2019, the onsen had been partially closed for repairs, including seismic reinforcement, plumbing updates, refurbishments, and roof replacement.

Reopening Day

Despite heavy rain at 6 am on reopening day, around 50 eager tourists and locals had already formed a line. Among them was Kotone Nose, a third-year student at Ehime University, who waited overnight to be among the first to bathe. Reflecting on her experience, she remarked, "The new interior was spacious and refreshing, and the water temperature was perfect — truly unforgettable."

New Features

Dogo Onsen now offers two new private rest areas: "The Soaring Room," accommodating up to 10 people, and the "Shirasagi-no-ma Room," designed for up to 18 people. The name "Shirasagi" (heron) originates from folklore where a heron was believed to heal its wounds in the thermal waters.

These new rooms were built in response to high demand for existing private rooms and anticipated growth in inbound visitors. City officials have reported strong reservation numbers, particularly for weekends, since bookings opened in June.

In addition to the new rooms, Matsuyama City has introduced redesigned bath tickets and tour packages to commemorate the occasion. A city official expressed that the facility "now offers enhanced safety and comfort for all while preserving its historic charm."

The bath tickets feature special illustrations of the Dogo Onsen building and a heron that can be cut out and assembled into small dioramas.

A Symbol of Matsuyama

Sugimura Yukinori, head of Matsuyama City's Dogo Onsen Office, said, "We are grateful to have so many visitors and hope that they enjoy the hot springs and the new services." The facility now has cooling and heating systems in the changing rooms.

The reopening is also significant as this year marks the 130th anniversary of its reconstruction during the Meiji era, which cost ¥135,000 JPY at a time when a schoolteacher's starting salary was around ¥8 JPY. Since then, the building has undergone multiple expansions and renovations to achieve its current form.

Speaking at a press briefing, Matsuyama City's Mayor Katsuhito Noshi said, "Our goal is to elevate visitor satisfaction while honoring Dogo Onsen's historical value and evocative ambiance."

Mitsuhiko Miyazaki is the chairman of a council promoting the Dogo Onsen area, comprised of representatives from local inns and shopping districts. He remarked, "Dogo Onsen has been refurbished in a way that preserves its appearance from 130 years ago. We hope it will remain a symbol of Matsuyama for decades and centuries to come."

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(Read the article in Japanese.)

Author: Koji Maekawa, The Sankei Shimbun