Step back in time to 19th-century Japan among plum blossoms in a suburban forest in Fuchu, a region full of hidden gems nestled in western Tokyo.
knm-480-white-close--250301_083430_022749479.raw-01.mp.cover_pxl

White plum blossoms in Fuchu. (©Japan Forward)

Judging by articles in English promoting tourism and what tourists post on social media sites, nothing looms larger than sakura (flowering cherry). While certainly impressive, sakura are only one of a succession of flowering trees and shrubs in Japan that mark the transition from winter to summer: plum (ume), sakura, azalea (tsutsuji), and hydrangeas (ajisai).

Shop building dating from 1888. (©Japan Forward)

Having visited Koishikawa Korakuen on February 14, one of the best known ume viewing venues, my wife researched this subject and suggested a visit to Fuchu Municipal Museum Kyodo-no-Mori  (府中市郷土の森博物館), which we made on March 1.

Gate from a wealthy farm family house constructed in 1829. (©Japan Forward)

The official name suggests a building with static exhibits. However, this municipal facility is actually something of a botanical garden famous for its ume (Prunus mume) orchard, ajisai hydrangeas (ajisai), and higanbana (Lycoris radiata, red spider lily). It also has a small collection of buildings, both rural and urban, from the Edo and Meiji eras similar to the Edo-Tokyo Tatemono En.

Hina ningyo (doll) display in one of the farm houses. (©Japan Forward)
Fuchu City Hall constructed in 1921. Free to explore inside. (©Japan Forward)
Drooping or weeping ume and sakura are particularly popular for photographs and selfies. (©Japan Forward)

Ume differ from the sakura of the somei yoshino variety most closely associated with Japan. Public parks and gardens that feature ume often have many varieties with different colors and blossoms, which bloom over a six-week or longer span.

Even in full bloom ume show more branches than sakura. (©Japan Forward)

Kyodo-no-mori has more than 1,100 trees in 60-plus varieties. A few trees are so similar to sakura that there is a sign explaining that they are in fact ume. Others are very different with a color range from faint red to deep dark red, almost purple. A few are yellowish.

A closeup of white plum blossoms. (©Japan Forward)

Although the Kyodo-no-mori Ume Festival ends on March 9, there should be no shortage of trees in bloom for at least another week or more.

Photographing ume is, however, a challenge. Much of the beauty is in small clusters of flowers rather than the massive flower clouds produced by sakura. A shallow depth of field allows striking closeups while blurring otherwise distracting background details, but on a windy day, the branches move in and out of focus continually.

White and red ume mix. (©Japan Forward)
A tree said to resemble a crawling or reclining dragon. (©Japan Forward)

The Museum

Heavily oriented to local history, the museum has an extensive collection of prehistoric artefacts discovered in the Fuchu area and a collection of daily household items from the immediate postwar and 60s high growth period.

Hand-cranked wringer washing machine. (©Japan Forward)

One large exhibit is devoted to the annual festival of the Okunitama Shrine located at the south end of the central shopping district in Fuchu.  Held every year from April 30 to May 6, this festival is noted for its large and numerous dashi (山車) and attracts enormous crowds.

Eating

Kyodo-no-mori invites picnickers. There are two restaurants, one housed in a Meiji-era building.  During special events, there are also "food cars" offering various types of street food snacks.

Advertisement

Access

Kyodo-no-mori is a pleasant 20 minute walk from Bubaigawara Station for the Keio and Musashino Lines (our choice), Fuchu Honcho Station for the Musashino and Nanbu Lines, and Koremasa Station on the Seibu Tamagawa Line. Bus service is available but hardly needed. Parking for 400 cars is available but shared with other nearby recreation facilities.

Kyodo-no-mori is adjacent to the Tamagawa Cycling course, making it accessible from Kawasaki or Tachikawa and points between. Most of Kyodo-no-mori has good access for wheelchair users.

Admission is ¥300 JPY ($2 USD) for adults.

A teahouse, one of several facilities that can be rented. (©Japan Forward)

Kyodo-no-mori is on Instagram, Facebook, and X (formerly Twitter) with information about special events and updates on what is in bloom.

We both very much enjoyed our visit and hope to go again when ajisai or higanbana are in bloom, possibly even cycling there.

RELATED:

Author: Earl H Kinmonth

Photographs by EH Kinmonth.

Find other stories about Tokyo and nearby areas by Dr Kinmonth.

Leave a Reply