Shakujii Park offers a peaceful alternative for autumn foliage viewing, with ponds, birdwatching, and a local history museum — all without the usual crowds.
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Autumn colors reflected in a pond in Shakujii Park. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)

The autumn colors viewing season in Tokyo is approaching. Generally, it runs from late November to early December spanning a period from two weeks to a month. As of this writing, forecasts are saying the season will begin on November 29 (yellow) and December 5 (red).

Noted viewing sites include Rikugien, Koishikawa Korakuen, Mizumoto Koen, Showa Kinen Koen, and Takaosan, and the Okutama region in the far west of Tokyo.

These tend to be extremely crowded when the autumn colors are at their best, especially in the case of sites offering "light ups" (nighttime illumination) such as Shinjuku Gyoen and Rikugien.

A mix of autumn colors and green leaves in Shakujii Park. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)
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Avoiding Crowds

A lesser-known alternative is Shakujii Park in Nerima Ward. The park showcases a spectacular display of autumn colors reflected in two large ponds. It also offers a chance to see herons, cormorants, and other wild birds going about their business in a park adjacent to a very upmarket residential area.

(©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)

On Sundays, model boat enthusiasts gather to exercise their craft. It's a good opportunity to chat with Japanese eager to explain their hobby.

A row of model boats by the pond. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)

There are play areas for small children, and they are encouraged to scour a small stream for an invasive species of crayfish. The park figures in several popular manga and is used for location shots in television and film productions.

An upscale residential area next to the park. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)

A further attraction is a small but very well-executed local history museum. It offers reconstructions of postwar Showa (1950s-1960s) shops, middle-class dwellings, and a beautifully preserved minka (traditional farm dwelling).

The exterior of the preserved minka. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)
The "engawa" porch of the minka. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)
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Getting There

We live close to the Shakujii River and always cycle along it to the park.  For others not so situated, using the Seibu Ikebukuro Line to the Shakujii-koen Station is the most practical alternative. From there, it is a seven-minute walk to the park. There are buses to the park from the Kami-Igusa Station on the Seibu Shinjuku Line.

Going by car is also feasible. There is an adjacent car park open 24 hours a day.

Visitors can view autumn colors from swan (pedal) boats. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)
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Getting Around and Eating

The park is generally wheelchair and stroller-friendly. On weekend visits, we often see families with small children and strollers and elderly people in wheelchairs.

There is a beer garden and a snack shop within the park. Bento and the makings of a picnic lunch can be bought at shops in and around Shakujii-koen Station.

Shakujii Park is very different from the teien (formal gardens) that are conspicuous among the celebrated autumn color-viewing venues in Tokyo. It is a bit shabby and unkempt but that is what makes it attractive to wild birds, families with small children, and us.

It is a good place to visit year-round just to chill out.

A pedal boat glides toward an arched bridge. (©JAPAN Forward by EH Kinmonth)

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Author: Earl H Kinmonth

Photographs by EH Kinmonth. Find other stories about Tokyo and nearby areas by Dr Kinmonth.

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