日露戦争120年好古・真之・子規の青春に触れる坂の上の雲ミュージアムで足跡たどる

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A special exhibition titled What Shall I Become? — The Spirit of Meiji as Seen in Saka no Ue no Kumo has opened at the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum in Matsuyama City. It shines a spotlight on the youth of three central figures from Ryotaro Shiba's 1969 novel Saka no Ue no Kumo (Clouds Above the Hill): Akiyama Yoshifuru, Akiyama Saneyuki, and Masaoka Shiki.

The exhibit marks 120 years since the end of the Russo-Japanese War (1904–1905), a conflict between the Russian Empire and Japan over control of Korea and Manchuria. Fueled by imperial rivalry, the war began with a surprise Japanese attack on the Russian fleet at Port Arthur. Japan won a series of land and naval battles, culminating in a decisive victory at the Battle of Tsushima.

It ended with the Treaty of Portsmouth, brokered by United States President Theodore Roosevelt. Japan's victory marked the first time an Asian power defeated a major European nation in modern warfare.

The exhibit retraces the early lives of these three men — each born in Matsuyama — who would go on to leave their mark in the army, the navy, and the world of haiku. Around 120 rare artifacts help bring their formative years to life.

Parallels with the Novel's Heroes

In Saka no Ue no Kumo, Shiba writes:

"Ambition for personal advancement moved every young man of this era. It was a time when no one doubted that personal success aligned with national interest."

The exhibition explores how the three protagonists wrestled with that very spirit of the times. It follows their struggles, dreams, and the choices that shaped their paths.

Yasuhiro Kan, the museum's general director and executive producer of NHK's drama adaptation, says:

"Through this exhibition, I want visitors to imagine what these three were thinking, what they aspired to, and how they made their decisions amid the spirit of the Meiji era."

The exhibit title uses the Iyo dialect word "Ashi wa…" meaning "I." It captures the three men in moments of youthful self-reflection. Additionally, this is also the first time the museum has simultaneously featured all three figures during their youth.

Yoshifuru

The exhibition is divided into three sections — one each for Yoshifuru, Saneyuki, and Shiki. Large panels outline their early biographies and memorable episodes. Each section also includes rare personal artifacts.

In the Yoshifuru section, one highlight is the resignation letter he submitted in 1877 when he left his post as an elementary school teacher in Nagoya. This document is being shown publicly for the first time in Aichi Prefecture.

*The letter of resignation submitted by Yoshifuru Akiyama to the Governor of Aichi Prefecture.*

Other items include his childhood textbooks and grade reports from the Imperial Japanese Army Academy. Visitors can also learn about his decision to lie about his age to enroll in the tuition-free Osaka Normal School and about his later military studies in France.

Saneyuki

Saneyuki's section features documents such as his appointment as a division commander — an honor given to top-performing Naval Academy students. Also displayed is a group photo of his 17th class cohort and a waka poem he wrote at age 14 that appeared in the Matsuyama literary magazine Fuei Shinshi.

There are also letters to Shiki and materials from the "Seven Eccentrics," a group he formed with Shiki and other friends while studying at Tokyo University's preparatory school. They would critique each other's writing and ideas.

Shiki

In the Shiki section, the centerpiece is a sword-cane and military satchel he used as a newspaper correspondent during the First Sino-Japanese War. A gift from former Matsuyama domain lord Sadakoto Hisamitsu, the sword-cane is being displayed together with the satchel for the first time in 22 years.

Also on display is a letter he wrote in middle school, in which he expresses frustration about being unable to move to Tokyo. There is also a handwritten Chinese poem from his prep school days. Another notable item is the awl he used to bind his manuscript Haiku Classification. These artifacts shed light on his emotional journey — from ambitious student to tuberculosis patient to haiku reformer in his final years.

*A cane sword and military satchel used by Masaoka Shiki during his service in the First Sino-Japanese War.*

Experience the Spirit of the Meiji Era

All three men spent their youth in Matsuyama and went on to play major roles in Japan's modernization during the Meiji era.

Yoshifuru led cavalry units in the Russo-Japanese War. He is credited with halting the advance of the fearsome Cossack cavalry and came to be known as the "Father of the Japanese Cavalry."

Saneyuki was instrumental in modernizing the Japanese Navy. During the Russo-Japanese War, he served as a staff officer for the Combined Fleet and helped design the strategy for the Battle of Tsushima.

Shiki transformed the world of haiku. His literary work continues to influence Japanese poetry today.

Large panels in the exhibition detail these later achievements. A video section shows the three men in adulthood, building on the foundation of their youth.

In the center of the hall, a floor map shows the area around Matsuyama Castle as it was around 1882, during the time the three were coming of age. Hanging from the ceiling are quotes from the novel, like "I too want to study" and "Nobu, if you hate being poor, study." These words immerse visitors in the ideals and energy of the era.

Curator Yosuke Nishimatsu explains:

"There are very few surviving materials from their youth, so these are quite precious. This exhibit offers a chance to understand the turning points in their lives. I hope visitors will come and experience the atmosphere of the Meiji era."

*Large panels featuring the biographies and episodes of each of the three main characters are on display.*

Exhibition Info

Runs through February 15, 2026
Closed on Mondays (except holidays)
Admission:
- Adults: ¥400 (¥500 from April)
- Seniors 65+ and high school students: ¥200 (¥250 from April)
- Free for junior high school students and younger
Exhibit items rotate approximately every 3 months
Contact: 089-915-2600