Love Japanese Food? Uncover Tokyo's Heart in Its Diverse Cuisine

As travelers flood into Japan, foodies worldwide explore Tokyo's diverse and innovative cuisine. From traditional Japanese dishes to fusion food there seem to be flavors for all pallets. Tokyo has the most stars in the Michelin Guide and its approach to food is both delicious and thought-provoking.

On January 31, JAPAN Forward participated in an immersive experience called, "A Journey to Discover Tokyo's Heart Through Its Diverse Cuisine." The event was produced by one of Tokyo's leading innovators in the art of cooking, Yusuke Nomura, and hosted by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 executive committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Joining Chef Nomura were chefs Yoshiyuki Funyu, and Yusuke Goto.

Their cuisines tell tales of Japanese history, its present, and its future, all through the delicious medium of food.

*Chef Funyu prepares his first dish Bluefin Tuna and Green Onion Hotpot. (Courtesy of Tokyo Food Promotion Executive Committee)*

Edo, a Taste of The Past

The first presentation transports us to the Edo era, showcasing common dishes of the time. Yoshiyuki Funyu, head chef and owner of Kappo F u nyu, skillfully prepares the first dish while offering insights into pre-Tokyo cuisine.

A pot of dashi simmers on the island kitchen, infused with leeks and soy sauce. Funyu cuts toro (the prized fatty part of tuna) into bite-sized pieces. "Though tuna is a luxury today, it was once commoner food," he notes, gently placing it into the broth. "Cooked tuna may seem unusual now, but preserving raw fish was difficult back then." After a brief simmer, he ladles out the "Bluefin Tuna and Green Onion Hotpot." The hotpot is light yet rich in umami, with the leeks adding a delicate sweetness.

Moving on, he mixes dark rice vinegar into freshly cooked rice, creating akashiyari (red sushi rice). "White vinegar is typical today, but in the Edo era, it was much rarer," he explains. He slices marinated tuna, grates fresh wasabi, and swiftly assembles the "Marinated Tuna Nigiri." This dish has a subtle tang from the marinade but its savoriness is balanced by the slightly sweet rice.

For the final dish, he unveils marinated wild boar meat, searing it in a hot pan before slicing it into bite-sized pieces. The result: "Wild Boar Loin Marinated in Edo-Style Sweet Miso." The wild boar, in contrast to the other dishes, delivers a bold, smoky depth with a firm, almost cured texture. It makes a striking finale to this historical culinary journey.

Chef Funyu On Innovation

"Japan, like the rest of the world, is becoming increasingly diverse," says Chef Funyu on the influx of tourists. "I want to incorporate more foreign elements into my cooking while also preserving Japan's traditional cooking methods. I think striking that balance is very important."

"Right now," he continues "there is a tendency to constantly seek out new cooking styles and innovations. But I also believe that revisiting older, time-honored techniques is just as valuable. In fact, for foreign guests, Japanese cuisine is incredibly broad, and by emphasizing the culture of dashi (broth) and the natural flavors of ingredients, I think we can help them better understand the essence of Japanese food. With that in mind, I chose to use very traditional, classic dishes for today's presentation."

*Chef Goto presents his deconstructed Sukiyaki a Japanese Wagyu with Scrambled Eggs and Chrysanthemum Crepe. (Courtesy of Tokyo Food Promotion Executive Committee)*

Present, a Playful take on Japanese and French Fusion

After our journey through Edo cuisine, we step into the present, where Chef Yusuke Goto, owner of AMOUR, a French-Japanese fusion restaurant, awaits. He greets us alongside a special guest, his key ingredient — a hairy crab, a prized delicacy in Japan.

Goto begins by delicately spreading a pre-made cauliflower cream onto a glass dish. He then layers on a tartare made from the crab's miso and meat, encasing it in a shimmering kombu jelly. For the finishing touch, he arranges thinly sliced cauliflower and flower petals.

"My inspiration is the ocean," he says with a smile, presenting his first creation: "Hairy Crab Tartare with Cauliflower Cream, Garnished with Kombu Jelly." The crab's sweetness melds beautifully with the creamy cauliflower, creating a luxurious interplay of textures.

A Modern Take on a Traditional Dish

For the next dish, Goto showcases his innovative approach to French cuisine using seafood. He dusts a piece of cod milt lightly with flour and sears it in a sizzling pan. As it browns, he introduces Mont d'Or cheese to the audience before plating the golden milt alongside a generous dollop of the cheese. With a flourish, he finishes with a drizzle of black truffle vinaigrette. The result: "Pan-Seared Cod Milt with Mont d'Or Cheese and Black Truffle Vinaigrette." The milt is decadently rich, its creaminess enhanced by the cheese's savory depth, while the vinaigrette adds a hint of earthiness.

Finally, Goto unveils his last creation, his own take on the traditional hotpot dish sukiyaki. He carefully places a thin slice of wagyu (Japanese beef) atop a crepe. The crepe batter is made by blending chrysanthemum leaves. A spoonful of scrambled egg follows, then a glossy, dark sauce to complete the dish. The crepe has a pleasantly glutinous texture, while the sauce provides a smoky depth, elevating the Wagyu Sukiyaki Crepe into an experience of layered flavors and contrasts.

Chef Goto On Bridging the Gap

One of the most important aspects of cooking is the quality of ingredients. Chef Goto had this to say about the producers he works with. "I always make sure to visit producers all across Japan. Knowing who produced them is a completely different feeling from handling something made by someone you don't know."

He further explains how this translates to the customer experience. "Our work depends on these producers, so I make it a point to meet them, have conversations, and truly understand their intentions. Then, we convey that to our guests, serving as a bridge between the producers and the consumers. I think that's an important role we play."

*Chef Nomura’s Shyojin Riyori from the left: Sankaigohan, Shimizuyosen, Hobayaki, Hassun. (Courtesy of Tokyo Food Promotion Executive Committee)*

Future, an Introduction to a Familiar Flavor

The experience continues as the audience moves to the next location — a beautifully designed room with tatami floors and a traditional Japanese interior. Though the setting is familiar to anyone living in Japan, the flavors presented here offer a glimpse into the future.

Guests are welcomed with a choice of drinks: a classic Manhattan for those opting for alcohol and a fragrant Taiwanese tea for non-drinkers. Yusuke Nomura, head chef at Daigo, introduces the first appetizer: Hobayaki, a dish baked inside a magnolia leaf. Within the leaf, an assortment of vegetables, mushrooms, and konjac is enveloped in a rich, kelp-infused miso. Despite being entirely vegan, this dish brings out the most extravagant flavors from each ingredient, creating a deeply savory and satisfying experience.

The next course tells a seasonal story inspired by setsubun, the Japanese holiday marking the transition from winter to spring. His beautifully plated dish features winter produce, with yamaimo (mountain yam) carved into a delicate square bowl holding a small pinch of peas. These symbolize the tradition of setsubun, where children throw dried beans to ward off bad spirits.

Following this, Nomura presents Sankaigohan, a rice dish accompanied by miso soup and pickles. The rice is adorned with crispy fried maitake mushrooms, enhancing its earthy flavors.

The final course offers a refreshing and minimalist conclusion: "Japanese Clean Water Jelly." Composed of 80% pure water, the delicate jelly is lightly drizzled with brown sugar molasses and garnished with sweet black beans and half an apricot, delivering a subtly sweet and hydrating finish.

*Chef Nomura giving a presentation on the dishes he has prepared. (©JAPAN Forward)*

Chef Nomura on Sustainability in the Kitchen

Chef Nomura who practices shojin ryori emphasised the importance of sustainability in the kitchen. Shojin cuisine is traditionally a vegetarian style of Buddhist cusine, he explains.

"Naturally, I avoid using fossil fuels. I don't contribute to methane gas emissions, because I don't use meat like beef or pork. In other words, just by cooking the way I do, my work is inherently sustainable." It is clear that he is truly proud of this aspect of his craft as he continues,

"So in a way, the more people appreciate my food, and the more dishes I create, the more it helps the environment. That's why I don't need to overthink — it naturally aligns with sustainability. And that makes things really easy for me."