Sake Brewers in Noto and Kansai Celebrate UNESCO Status

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Japan's traditional sake brewing was officially registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage on December 5 (JST). The announcement brought joy to the sake industry on the Noto Peninsula, which was severely damaged by the January earthquake.

Noto is home to the Noto Toji, one of Japan's four major traditional sake-brewing guilds, known for preserving techniques passed down through generations. Local sake producers welcomed the news, with one commenting, "This represents a significant step forward for our recovery efforts."

Resilience Amid Disaster

Founded in 1869, Kazuma Sake Brewery, located in Noto Town, Ishikawa Prefecture, has a history spanning more than 150 years. The New Year's Day earthquake caused walls to collapse and mudwater to flood the facility, forcing the brewery to temporarily suspend production. Employees came together to clean and restore the site, successfully resuming sake production by April. By mid-November, they had begun shipping freshly pressed sake.

Shihori Kazuma, a 42-year-old public relations representative for the brewery, shared her excitement about the UNESCO registration. "It is a great honor to see Japan's techniques and spirit, cultivated by our predecessors, receive this recognition," she said.

Four of the six buildings, including the brewery, remain damaged. Temporary measures, such as covering them with blue tarps, keep out the rain but do little to block the cold winds. Although repairs are planned, construction is unlikely to begin before next fall.

Kazuma remarked, "The earthquake has brought Noto's sake industry to a crisis. However, we hope to harness the momentum [from this registration] to aid our recovery."

*An employee at Kazuma Sake Brewery prepares koji for new sake on November 14 in Noto Town, Ishikawa Prefecture. (Courtesy of Kazuma Sake Brewery).*

Path to Recovery

According to the Ishikawa Sake Brewers Association, 11 breweries operate in the heavily affected areas of Suzu, Wajima, and Noto Town. Of these, two have resumed brewing, and one plans to restart by spring 2025.

However, the remaining eight remain unable to operate due to extensive damage, with some facing years before production can resume. To support these breweries, producers both within and outside the prefecture have stepped in, hosting brewing operations and engaging in joint production efforts.

Shigehisa Uratani, Executive Director of the Sake Brewers Association, said, "Noto's sake is renowned for its rich and vibrant qualities. It pairs well with both Japanese and Western cuisine. We hope this registration will inspire all in the industry to unite and promote its appeal as part of the recovery effort."

Voices of Joy Across Kansai

In addition, the registration has sparked excitement among sake producers in Kansai and beyond. "We hope to share the excellence of Japanese sake with future generations and audiences worldwide," an industry representative from the region said.

Shinuemon Konishi, President of Konishi Brewing Company in Itami City, Hyogo Prefecture, also commented on the significance of the registration. "This provides an opportunity for people to learn about the culture and history surrounding Japan's sake breweries and koji," he stated. Koji is a mold used to break down rice starches into sugars, which are then fermented by yeast to produce alcohol.

Konishi made the statement during a press conference in Tokyo on December 5, speaking as chairman of the Society for the Preservation of Japan's Traditional Koji-Based Sake Brewing Techniques.

Takenosuke Yasufuku, President of Kobe Shushinkan Brewery, producer of Fukuju in Nada Gogo — one of Japan's three major sake-brewing regions — highlighted the potential impact on tourism. He expressed hopes for the growth of cultural tourism in Nada Gogo through sake brewery tours and hands-on experiences. "This recognition will further boost interest among foreign visitors to Japan," he said.

Preserving Tradition, Gaining Global Recognition

Yukihiro Kitagawa, President of Kitagawahonke, which produces Tomiou in Fushimi, Kyoto — one of Japan's three major sake-brewing regions — highlighted the renewed attention sake brewing will receive. Kitagawa noted its growing recognition both domestically and internationally. "We must ensure the unique environments and histories of each sake-brewing region are preserved and passed down to future generations," he declared with conviction.

*Fukumitsuya's special edition sake on the occasion of the Shinkansen extension. The sticker (right) indicates that Fukumitsuya will donate part of the revenue to Noto recovery. (©Fukumitsuya)*

The toji (meaning master sake brewer) of Banshu in Hyogo Prefecture, known as the birthplace of sake, also expressed great joy. Yuichi Tsubosaka, a 44-year-old toji and executive director at Sanyohai Shuzo in Yamasaki, Shiso City, Hyogo Prefecture, expressed his thoughts. "It's an honor to see Japan's unique brewing techniques recognized worldwide," he said. He added, "I hope this recognition will help introduce sake to regions where it remains unfamiliar."