Autumn Sunsets: The Melancholy Beauty of Japan's Crimson Skies

Autumn has officially arrived, though the lingering heat suggests otherwise. Still, the intense summer warmth is starting to subside. As with the end of every Japanese summer, a quiet melancholy sets in.

At dusk, the townscape is bathed in a deep crimson glow, drawing many passersby to pause and admire the scene. The western sky deepens, glowing a vivid red like cockscomb flowers. In those fleeting moments before nightfall, the town takes on a completely transformed appearance.

Autumn's Quiet Arrival

Sei Shonagon's The Pillow Book captures the emotional depth of Japan's four seasons, famously remarking, "Autumn is at its finest at dusk."

Echoing her words is Kenichiro Araki, a cloud researcher and chief research officer at the Meteorological Research Institute of the Japan Meteorological Agency. He is known in Japan for his book Saikoni Sugosugiru Tenkino Zukan (An Extraordinary Weather Encyclopedia), published by KADOKAWA.

"Autumn is known for its high skies and the spread of cirrus and altocumulus clouds, which often create magnificent, blazing sunsets," Araki explains. This makes autumn sunsets a unique spectacle of the season.

Crimson Skies

But why does the sky turn red at sunset?

During the day, the sky appears blue because the sun is high, allowing blue light to scatter widely. As the sun sets and sinks lower, sunlight passes through a longer stretch of the Earth's atmosphere. The shorter-wavelength blue light scatters out of view, leaving the longer-wavelength red light to reach our eyes.

"The red light we see at sunset has traveled through an intense scattering process in the atmosphere," says Araki.

This trait of red light — scattering less and traveling farther — is also why it is commonly used in traffic signals to indicate "stop" or signal danger.

Some people, when seeing a beautiful sunset, may believe the following day will be sunny. This belief stems from the fact that weather typically moves from west to east, so a cloudless western sky at sunset is often taken as a sign of clear weather the next day — a belief passed down through generations.

However, Araki offers a word of caution: "In reality, this is often not the case. The appearance of the sunset can change significantly depending on current weather conditions. Each sunset is a unique miracle, seen only in that moment. They should be enjoyed as once-in-a-lifetime encounters."

According to a list of the top 100 Japanese sunsets curated by an NPO in Takasago City, Hyogo Prefecture, metropolitan areas have fewer prime spots for viewing spectacular sunsets. This shortage is largely due to the common "high west, low east" atmospheric pressure pattern, which favors Western Japan for sunset viewing.

Nevertheless, the profound impact of a sunset's deep red light transcends geography, evoking nostalgia and touching the hearts of admirers wherever it is seen.

Otsukimi and Seasonal Japanese Treats

In addition to the changing skies, seasonal Japanese treats offer another delight throughout the year. On September 17, Japan celebrates Otsukimi, or the moon-viewing night. During this time, rabbit-shaped sweets fill store displays, bringing joy to shoppers during the festive season. The dark markings on the moon's surface are traditionally seen as a rabbit pounding mochi with a mallet and mortar.

Among these confections, some have been cherished by locals for over a century. One such treat is the Usagi (rabbit) Monaka from Usagiya, a confectionery shop in Utsunomiya City.

The monaka comes in two varieties: one with a fragrant, roasted shell filled with rich, flavorful red bean paste, and another with a white shell packed with smooth, sweet white bean paste. Each piece is priced at ¥119 JPY (about $1 USD).

"The founder was born in the Year of the Rabbit, so when the shop was established in 1915 —another Rabbit year — they chose to name it Usagiya," explains Masahiko Hiyama, the fourth-generation owner.

The monaka features charming long ears and a delicate sweetness that melts in the mouth. "The shape has remained unchanged since our founding. As part of our shop's own cultural heritage, we are committed to preserving and cherishing this special confection," says Hiyama.

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(Read the article in Japanese.)

Author: Satomi Sakaki, The Sankei Shimbun