EDITORIAL | Sake Brewing Custom Gets a Boost from UN Heritage Seal

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Japan's "traditional sake brewing" culture has been inscribed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

It is truly gratifying that Japanese techniques for making sake, shochu, awamori, and other locally sourced alcoholic beverages have gained such international recognition.

Sake is an essential part of Japanese ceremonial occasions, such as festivals and weddings. Also, sake brewing is said to contribute to local community solidarity.

Hopefully, the designation will deepen understanding of the cultural values underlying the tradition of sake brewing. The designation could even help to advance its further development.

What is Sake?

Sake is made by fermenting rice with the help of the koji. It is a special kind of mold used in food and beverage production that is special to Japan. The incomparable flavor it lends is distinctive and mellow.

Sake is a brewed alcoholic beverage, just like wine that relies on the sugar from grapes for fermentation. However, sake is a beverage unique to Japan.

*A sake brewer is shown mixing fermenting mash in Akashi City, Hyogo Prefecture.*

The prototype of modern sake brewing techniques dates back to the Muromachi period (1338-1573). It is a tradition that has evolved to suit local climates and environments. Moreover, the techniques of master brewers and other brewers have been passed down through generations.

The cries of joy arising throughout Japan demonstrate that sake brewing is going on in many regions.

Embracing the Changing Market

However, the workforce in the industry is aging. Come what may, we must preserve time-honored traditions while also making changes to suit the times.

For one, the market has become increasingly tough in recent years. According to a survey by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, domestic shipments of sake peaked in 1973. Since then, they have been declining and in 2023 shipments fell to less than a quarter of that record amount. Competition from a variety of other alcoholic beverages has contributed to this decline. So has the low-alcohol boom due to health-conscious trends.

At the same time, sake exports have been climbing. Demand for sake is on the rise due to the popularity of "washoku." Japan's unique food culture itself was registered as an intangible cultural heritage in 2013.

According to industry statistics, the export value in 2023 was about four times higher than 10 years ago in 2014. Although "sake" is already widely known overseas, it is hoped that the UNESCO registration will further increase awareness.

*An employee of Kazuma Sake Brewery stirs the tanks to make new sake, October 22, Noto Town, Ishikawa Prefecture (Photo courtesy of Kazuma Sake Brewery)*

A Product Helping to Rebuild Communities

Sake is a product that strongly reflects the history and culture of each given region. For example, many sake breweries were damaged in the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, the Kumamoto earthquake of 2016, and January 2024's Noto Peninsula earthquake. Nevertheless, support has also been growing due to crowdfunding and other initiatives. We would like to see long-term support and assistance to the industry continue in the future.

Since ancient times, sake has enjoyed a deep connection with religious ceremonies. The beverage itself was also believed imbued with spiritual power. In a banquet, For example, sake was first presented as an offering to the kami (gods). Afterward, the banquet guests drinking it would receive divine protection.

It is important to pass on the techniques for producing this national beverage. However, the spiritual culture that underlies the making and drinking of sake must also be passed on. For hundreds of years, it has served as a safe harbor providing solace for the soul.

Author: Editorial Board, The Sankei Shimbun

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